# Opinions wanted---Cabin Heat



## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Okay you smart old and young PT members. I just bought a 10,000 BTU Mr Buddy Blue Flame Heater, one of the few I could find that states in the "SAFE FOR BEDROOM use. "

Before you all say make sure you have plenty of ventilation thats covered. I always have a window open. Plus the cabin has its own little vent I bought just for extra safety.

My concern is this. Will 10,000 BTU's be enough for ~ 60 square feet of unisulated space. I say 60 because under the bed there will be storage. Their will be cabinets on the wall and perhaps a 9 sqaure foot indoor restroon.shower.

I have no insulation at all just 1/2 [email protected] cedar. However, I have no cracks or holes. The ceiling is 3/8 thick, over that is 2 plys of 30lb felt. 1.5 inches of dead air space, and then a steel roof. The peak has some vetilation.

Now I slept in a canvas tent with a wood stove. But wood heating (convection heat) is much different than heating the air.

So tell me you opinions, Will I have to thaw my 1/2 and 1/2 creamer to poor it in my coffee in the morning??

Larry


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## kiyote (Jun 15, 2014)

this one says it'll heat 300 sq feet. so I would think ,insulation or not it aught to keep 60 comfortable

Reddy Heater 10,000 BTU Blue Flame Dual-Fuel Wall Heater ...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reddy-Heater-10-000-BTU-Blue-Flame-Dual-Fuel-Wall-Heater-BWH10NLMDC/100672686
The Reddy Heater Blue Flame Dual-Fuel Wall Heater delivers 10,000 BTUs and conveniently allows you to operate with either liquid propane or natural gas, ...


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## catcapper (Feb 11, 2010)

Sheep herders stove and dried cow turds at night.

awprint:


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Here you go Larry,

http://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-BTU-Per-Square-Foot


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## azpredatorhunter (Jul 24, 2012)

I remember using a two burner Coleman stove to heat the fishing shanty to where you could take off your jacket... Or maybe it was the BlackBerry brandy I am not exactly sure, it could have something to do with the fumes from the stove.

I would just get a good below zero sleeping bag

But seriously... Get a smoke detector and a Carbon monoxide detector for the cabin


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

Good advice, AZP.

I'd also get an in-line filter and a spare heater that can be run with 1-pound cylinders or the tank. That way if your heater dies, you'll have an ace in the hole. Also, you can run it if conditions deteriorate. A long-stem lighter is handy to light those things in the event the spark igniter fails.

I have a number of those heaters and they are well made and reliable.


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Cat... heres the deal. Plains snow is wet. When it melts in the daytime sun, the pies get wet. They either are too wet to burn or they freeze down on the bottom and when you pry them up you bust up the pie. Since I can't take good harwood out of Iowa because of the emrald ash boarere restraint, I would have to burn white pine and cottonwood. That means cleaning the pipe and spark screen every 3 days. Bottomline its a mess. I would stay with wood, if I could burn harwoods!

I am well aware of enclosed spaces and propane or any heat. Even in the tent with its good wood stove in use, I had a window open at -6. No diffrent with the new heater, except I bought a fancy vent so now the window can be closed. None-the less I will have a QTY of two, low O2, High CO, CO2 detectors and smoke detectors. Plus Ill have a dog with me this time.

As for a spare heater, Ill have my 1000 watt Yamaha generator and an electric milk house heater. Despite it saying its 1,000 watt, I can run a milk house heater at 1500 watts with it.

In line filter is a great idea Glenn. Ill get one.

My old artic military sleeping bag is rated at -30 to keep you alive. It keeps me warm to -20 but it does need washed...hahah

ED,,,I went through all the calcs...none of them make any sense. I could keep a 100 square foot canvas tent warm with no insulation at -6 with a coals only n my cyclinder stove. Oh and the wind was 20mph! Now I have wood sides instead of canvas. That is why I am asking for real life heating experience.

Keep the thoughts comming men...I always listen!

Larry


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Larry, I didnt understand all the calcs, but you being an engineer, I thought you would have fun with them , lol

This is how I would approach the problem : spend a night with what ever I had and then say, I need more heat or I was warm, simple old cowboy way.


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Ed!

Old cowboy way...thats great advise. If it gets too cold Ill sleep in the Suburban! hahah

I plan on leaving Nov 4. Mrs S is fine with that. Ill be home Dec 16 for Christmas and be back on the line Dec 28th.


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## knapper (Feb 5, 2010)

Will you have enoughventing to keep the moisture from the heater down? Propane is a very wet heat.


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

We used to hunt ducks not far from the ranches I trap. on one big reservoir we hunted out of what we called we called a barge blind. It was 18 x 8 foot wide fully enclosed aluminum duck blind. We slept 3-4 people in the blind and with those people a dog and a propane cooking

stove burner for heat we had little humidity issues. Two of the four shooting hatches were cracked open about one inch, we had no moisture issues.

The biggest reason is where I trap we get the arid air from the east side of the rockies. Its very very very arid and winter humidities average less than 4%. Thus based on the duck blind and the low humidity I don't expect to much of an issue.

However, time will tell!


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## Antlerz22 (Apr 18, 2011)

Mmm okay my 2 cents. Get a plump woman in the bed with you, However Im assuming you can even lure one in there with you LOL......just kidding.

I would think so long as you can change the indoor temp by 40 degrees (from say -20 to +20) then a good sleeping bag along with the heater should suffice. Not sure of the setup, but if there is a flat-top like on a yukon stove, put some square bricks on it to absord the heat and help radiate it creating more heated surfaces (+5 surfaces each brick with separation between) and to hold the heat longer after its turned off manually, or if thermostatically controlled during those off periods.


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