# raccoon Drags



## NattyB (Jan 5, 2012)

I admit to being a real "just grab gear and go" when it comes to raccoon trapping, but when I get to the creek, the most time is spent wiring up rocks and figuring out if the root is strong enough to secure the trap. Our clay/rock bottom creeks make staking awkward in the creek bed. IDEAR bloomed.

Visited a friend from a Road Department and asked him for channel post sections cut from the land of mis-fit signs. (Every Road Department has a pile of old twisted channel post headed for the scraper.) He cut me some 25 sections, 24" in length. I filed up the ends and washed the grease off them. I plan to you them as drags/"dead-men", by attaching the trap to a cable lead, then digging a slot in the creek bed...put in post sideways, then cover with mud and a rock or two. Even if the raccoon pulls them from the muck, I doubt they would get far.

I can carry 6 at a time with ease and I usually put no more than 6-8 traps out along any set area. Anyway, just an IDEAR. I think it will save me much time on the raccoon line.


----------



## azpredatorhunter (Jul 24, 2012)

I don't know... you may want to weld some points on them to snag on grass, roots ect.


----------



## hassell (Feb 9, 2010)

Geez, the only thing missing AZ is the boat to go with the anchor!!


----------



## catcapper (Feb 11, 2010)

Hey--- Eric doesn't screw around when he gets to lay'in steel. Wonder how far a cat could actually drag that thing.LOL.

That is a nice hook--- I kinda like the design.

NB--- That can work as long as there is enough length in your cable between the trap and channel post and you can get the channel at least 4-6 inches in the dirt/mud. I picket horses with a 12 inch hole in the ground and a couple big rocks smashed down on top of the knot on the end of the rope when I'm out on the trail over night. The length of the rope is important. I use at least 30 feet. Same principle as your deadman.

By the way--- I'd never use a drag on a trap for raccoon--- they can have quite a bit of pull. If I cant make the set where I can get a stake or wire in--- I find another place for the set.

awprint: awprint:


----------



## hassell (Feb 9, 2010)

catcapper said:


> Hey--- Eric doesn't screw around when he gets to lay'in steel. Wonder how far a cat could actually drag that thing.LOL.
> 
> That is a nice hook--- I kinda like the design.
> 
> ...


 Good reply Cat.


----------



## jimmy shutt (Jun 2, 2013)

Eric are they the saber tooth drags.....nice set up thanks for the picture.


----------



## jimmy shutt (Jun 2, 2013)

Natty, I haven't set steel in 30 years but have been an online trapper for a good year now.......it seems the craze, drags on dog proofs now. Cool idea for sure Minnesota Trap Products has those sabertooth drags 6 bucks for the 2lb one. Your idea should work fine and much more cost effective.

Was thinking of trying it when I do get to set in PA. But! the Cat has spoken....anything you guy's say on this site I take as experience x infinity speaking.

Cat, is it plain unnecessary to have drags on the raccoon traps as in more time spent searching and/or the raccoon has such a pull he could get a better advantage from dragging along creating a situation.

Make note to self; seems these videos are just a gimmick to sell more product?

Good luck Natty


----------



## hassell (Feb 9, 2010)

jimmy shutt said:


> Natty, I haven't set steel in 30 years but have been an online trapper for a good year now.......it seems the craze, drags on dog proofs now. Cool idea for sure Minnesota Trap Products has those sabertooth drags 6 bucks for the 2lb one. Your idea should work fine and much more cost effective.
> 
> Was thinking of trying it when I do get to set in PA. But! the Cat has spoken....anything you guy's say on this site I take as experience x infinity speaking.
> 
> ...


 Those raccoons are tough, haven't trapped them but know that they can drag a 20 lb pail of cat food across the yard.


----------



## azpredatorhunter (Jul 24, 2012)

LMAO Hassell... don't pee your self but I put a lock on it to, if people are around. Thanx Cat, you never know when a $1000 bobcat might step in it... Jimmy, yes it is a freedom brand saber tooth drag 2.65lbs. With 10' of chain... Natty like Cat said he would never use a drag for raccoon. You might be better off using disposable stakes...


----------



## jimmy shutt (Jun 2, 2013)

that's a big raccoon Mr. Hassell. must be some good cat food.


----------



## hassell (Feb 9, 2010)

jimmy shutt said:


> that's a big raccoon Mr. Hassell. must be some good cat food.


 Probably 70 ft. he put in dragging that pail.


----------



## NattyB (Jan 5, 2012)

Cat,

I made a bunch of 3' 3/32 7x7 cable extensions so I can get the channel buried good. IME raccoons always tangle in any possible thing around. My main concern has been to set for a solid front foot catch. (I think we were 11 for 11 last year on that.) I've noticed if I simply bury the drag rock in the muck, they often can't get it out. Whereas a non-buried rock, they can roll with pretty good (like Hassel's Cat food). Even still they tear the place up enough you can easily follow the tangle trail. I HATE TAKING THE TIME TO TIE UP ROCKS.

AZ,

Yea, that's the boat's anchor for a drag. Bet you could stop a Camel in it's tracks. (Nevermind, that's illegal in AZ.) Anyway, I do envy your rigs, shock springs and all. That is definetely a professional set-up. But, this raccoon line is not like "raccoons by the 100's". It's more like "Schoolboys in the back 40". I'm making my boys carry the things. I would like to get some of Clint's drags for Coyotes. I just got 6 MB 650's, putting on extra swivels and chain and going with Earth Anchors. ...But that's Dad's gear. The channel posts are for the boys. Plus if I waited for 9 and 10 year olds to wire rock drags, we wouldn't make it home for dinner.


----------

