# Trapping Vardo



## Larry

I started my new home away from home. Talking advantage of the warm weather a week ago I bought nearly 50 Western Red Cedar 1 x 6 Tongue and Groove boards. Then I applied Thompson water seal while still loose. It took up all of one side of the garage floor plus the trailer bed. I applied it with a garden sprayer set to a fine mist. That worked great and was super fast. As the water seal takes 48 hours to permeate with temps above 50 and no water intrusion, the boards on the trailer were covered.












.

BTW with my back and legs it took all summer to get my 23 year old dual axle 7,000 lb car trailer up to a safe operating condition. (new AXLE, Brakes, Wiring, Brake Controller, New Bearings, spindle resurfacing on old axle etc.) Man am I lucky to have such a great grandson that doesn't mind turning a wrench or getting dirty. At 14 I am very proud to say I spent a summer working alongside a great young man.

Impatient to check my plans and ensure the height was correct, I temporarily raised the walls (see below) on almost completely overhauled trailer. The trailer is 100% complete now with new tires and new sprayed on truck bed liner on the metal. Oh yeah I to time to cleaned up the old rims and add some wrinkle paint to them from Rust Oleum













.

People are asking what the weight will be.

- Lets start with the trailer. With the new tire the dry weight is 1850 lb's weighed one week ago on certified scales. Yes it was detached from the Suburban.

- Using the Menards online shipping weights for each piece my best estimate right now for the Vardo Cabin Shell with a green steel roof will be 1120 lbs. Since I have an accurate tear weight of an empty trailer Ill go back to the scales and see how close I am. My goal is to make a Vardo cabin shell with a permanent bed and mattress installed , enclosed restroom, heater/propane tanks, and cooking accessories to be less than 3500 lb's Yes this season will be a bare bones Vardo. My wife indicated she would like to camp with me. So next spring and summer she will design the interior, At 6'6" tall and at 12' x 8' feet I think she can really turn this into home.

-Cedar is light and that is one reason I chose it. It is about 1/3 less weight than pine. a 12' Cedar weighs 6.7 lbs and Pine weighs almost 10 lb's. Also Cedar is naturally rot and insect resistant. Not to mention its natural good looks. Okay I lucked out, Menards had it on sale a month ago for $5.50 a board cheaper then regular price. That was a favorite too!!

No insulation if I have my way. I like the wood exposure to much. As you know I have spent many a winter at sub zero in a canvas tent. If I can survive an uninsulated canvas tent 1/2 inch of wood should be just fine.

Hey any comments or questions...please don't hesitate. It will help during the actual build which by the way starts tomorrow. And with the assistance of my grandson should be 3/4 complete by sunset Sunday!


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## hassell

Well done, you're lucky to have a great helper.


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## Larry

Thank you, I am very lucky to have all my grandkids. Stand by I'll have allot of photos this weekend to share.


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## prairiewolf

cant wait to see finished pics, I like the idea of cedar siding . thats what I used on my house


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## glenway

Love the cedar, too. I used T/G knotty cedar on my garage and added a touch of it to a gable on my house that I'm siding now.

Don't need any insulation anyway, just a good heater.

Great work, Larry.


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## Larry

Glen thank-you it means allot!


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## Larry

Okay got a good start yesterday. Temporarily screwed in the old sashes to get some ideas. Today did not do much except buy wood for the rear wall. I also laid out the main bed and tiny 3 x 4 foot bathroom with tape. In the bathroom I put in a 5- bucketo get the feeling for size. I am sticking with its small size. Next year it will have a shower floor and the sink,composting loo (5-gallon bucket) will all be one, including a small sink.

(Just look at how blue the sky is....)


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## glenway

House trailer.


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## pokeyjeeper

great looking home away from home


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## Larry

Nope it's a storage shed that can do 65! On HGTV they call them Tiny Homes. :fryingpan:


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## hassell

Its getting there, there was some actual blue sky showing up here today, after a record breaking 27 days of rain in Oct..


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## prairiewolf

Hey, I thought the sides were going to over hang on both sides.


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## Larry

prairiewolf said:


> Hey, I thought the sides were going to over hang on both sides.


Changed my mind. I have 82 inches inches inside sidewall to sidewall. You need 80 inches for any mattress size larger than a twin. Thus I do not gain anything in my opinion other than added wind resistance. I will be sleeping on a twin mattress for now 39 x 75. However....if my great wife loves it after its completed. I may go to a queen mattress at 60"x 80". No adjustments to the trailer as the bed frame will slide out to fit the new mattress.

It will still sleep three comfortably as the main bed will be high enough so two Cabela's Outfitters Cots 85"x37"x20" from my tent will fit under the main bed frame. My Plan is to have about 40" of the cot length under the main bed as that is where the sleepers feet will go.

Other changes:

1) I considered making it like a pickup camper and have it removable. Nope its there to stay and I used the trailer frame as wall supports. (you can see the bolts in the photo on the right corner.) '''Yeppers''' I sacrificed my $600, 7,000lb GVWR trailer bought in the 1993 floods oh well!

2) No wood stove either. I decided to use a propane Mr. Big Buddy 18K BTU to be more convenient. That decision was partly from reviews on this site. The primary finally resulted from Iowa Law. We now have a quarantine on all hardwood firewood leaving the state do to the infestation of emerald ash borer. Thus, I would be forced to burn white pine only instead of mixing it with hardwood. Fact is I hate the hassle of cleaning flues, plus an occasional plugged spark arrestor on the chimney if I forget to look at it each morning. (I did that once and the tent got a tad smokey) My backup heat will be from my generator powering a 1500 watt electric milkhouse heater.

3) There will be a limited amount of built-ins this year . Yes Ill have a bed frame and maybe a temporary restroom wall for exterior side support. The wall may have some pegs for coats/clothes. Next spring/summer will be the interior build. My inclination right now is it will emulate my tent use. (Just a shell with some folding cots, table chairs) I have an old one burner butane stove for cooking indoors and a brand new still in the box small propane BBQ for use on the porch. My pooper will be my my Luggable Loo a 1 gallon pee jug. My bathing be done with water heated on the butane stove and a folding chair with two legs in a small galvanized tub. Yes folks you can scrub very well with just 2 gallons of river water. One for soaping and one for rinse.

Time to get to work as the dew is leaving!


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## glenway

A great project and something to be proud of. One of a kind. You'll be tweaking that thing for quite some time, Larry, but you've got a good start.


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## prairiewolf

Can hardly wait to see the finished project !


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## youngdon

Really nice Larry !


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## Larry

Thank you all. I am really posting this not to get back-pats but to let others see how easy it is to make their own camper. With campers costing $20,000.00 these days why not make your own for $2-3000. The trailer would be your biggest cost, but no need to go overboard at use a monster car hauler like me. A 10 to 12 foot long by 6 feet wide with single 3500lb axles is all you need.

Anyone can do it trust me and with minimal tools. If your doing it alone buy some clamps. Primary tools are drill, a circular saw or a chop saw, a measuring tape, a 4 foot level. And yes clamps really help. The drill is for driving screws and making pilot holes near edges to avoid spitting, The saw is self explanatory. Measuring tape is use a little but is you use dimensional lumber like 2 x 3 x 8, 2 x 2 x 8 and tongue and groove siding its not used that much.

The secret to building a box on a frame with wheels is this. It's your level. Make the trailer level and plumb to the ground. I hooked mine on to the Suburban hitch fits for steadiness and also to back it up onto boards placed on the ground for height. To tweak all of this a jack was then placed in the corner to eliminate any twisting. Yes it takes a few extra minutes, but like any good foundation its now level and plumb.

Then when you begin erecting the walls using that level and double and triple checking it, always comparing horizontal levelness and vertical plumb to the trailer level and plumb. No need for a square if you do this. Start with any front corner stud (with no twist or bow) and that will be your baseline for levelness and plumb for the rest of your build. Anchor it firmly with a two bolts, one on the top and one on the bottom. This is not a home build, and their are not that many studs, baseplates or top plates. Thus the level will be used on each.

Its just that simple. With good weather, a good back and some assistance from the misses or a friend....I see why no one cannot build a box on a trailer in a week. Mine of course is taking longer because I get stoved up after a couple of hours of work.

My materials for the shell will cost me $850.00 total. All will come from Menards and I took my time acquiring them all summer watching sales. The biggest price being the red cedar tongue and groove siding $490.00 for some 50 pieces. I would not of bought it, but luck was with me and I saved $5/board when it was on sale. I went with red cedar because of its natural weather resistance properties and its light weight. Next big price is the steel roof. It will be $120.00 unless I can get lucky again. The you add in for hinges, trim boards, locks, screws, studs etc.

As for windows mine were free, they are just sashes so the jams will have to be built. I got them from a neighbor replacing her windows and one day I was just driving by. I think a person could do the same if they contacted a window replacement company and asked them if they are replacing windows anywhere. Ask them if you can have any small sashes. I bet they would oblige you.

Ill have some more photos coming later today....thanks again for the kind words, you are all the best!


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## Larry

I picked this up yesterday at a Antique Shop. It was a little sticky but after tearing it apart and adding some oil it works fine. Very little wear on the inside.


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## prairiewolf

I have one almost just like that one ! How much did they charge you or in other words if I sell it, am I rich !!!!


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## Larry

prairiewolf said:


> I have one almost just like that one ! How much did they charge you or in other words if I sell it, am I rich !!!!


Maybe not rich but you could make enough for a nice gift.

I would check check ebay for reference in your area. I paid $38.00 for mine and I feel very fortunate. Mine did have a skeleton key and although the deadbolt and latch bolt worked rough when operated, it worked and I figured I would clean it up myself.

My purchase also had no strike plate that we could find. So the sales lady and I took some paper, laid it on top the deadbolt and latch bolt and made a pattern buy rubbing a pencil over the paper. I then labeled all openings. An hour later I received a call from her husband and he found a strike plate.

I just cleaned mine up with my trapping solution of powdered citric acid and water. It has stamped copper face plates. While I was at it I dipped the steel and brass parts also to remove any contaminates and rust. Final polishing was with a "greenie" pad. I then took all parts and put them in oversize plastic cups such as large plastic drink cups. When I do traps I boil them to remove the acid, in this case I ran warm water over them in the cups for ~5 mins each. Then I added dish soap and let them set for a couple of hours.

Prior to reassembly all parts were sprayed with liquid wrench silicone spray, allowed to sit for a few minutes then lightly wiped off.









I would believe if you did what I did and clean it all up especially the backing plates. Then you ensured it worked smoothly with no apparent wear on cams, no broken springs and it had a strike plate and maybe glass door knobs, plus at least one skeleton key.... Your value be as much as $150.00 as that is what interior door replicas are going for without any dead bolt or lock.

FYI...these are called full mortise locks. The face and back plates on mine is styled as Colonial Revival Rope. These are called "Full Mortise" because the entire lock assembly plus the deadbolt/latch face is morticed 3-4 inches into a solid wood door.


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## hassell

Beautiful job done.


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## youngdon

Nice work on the lock Larry.


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## Larry

Okay world look out. Old Larry is on top of his game again! I worked this weekend on of some of the Vardo, designing the curved roof rafters. Took most of the day. Not satisfied yet and thinking of Catcapper....I took a drive to an old saw mill Langhoff Log & Lumber Farm. Its run by 81 year old Dad "BUD" and 51 year old son :Brad" That photo is an actual old blade from their mill.










I met Brad and Bud both in the wood shop while some other men were looking at cherry. When the other guys left we talked for an hour reminiscing about days gone buy, the neighbors, 4H days and Bud's health. Bud has stage 4 cancer but he's still a sawyer by heart and still planes and runs the kiln. Oh he supervises Farmhall H and M tractor repairs too while Brad turns the wrenches.

Long story short, they had acquired some Western Red Cedar telephone poles. Now we have no red cedar here in Iowa except at the lumber yards. Lucky me since the Vardo is being sided with western red cedar tongue and groove, now the framework and rafters will have the same wood.

The men said they would saw it for me next week. Talk about luck. I am very excited especially at just $1.00/board foot and they'll size it to my dimensions. I can cut 2 curved rafters out of a a full dimension ed 2" x 8" x 6' board.

That means a single curved rafter will cost me around $2.00 per. That's awful inexpensive and the wood is well adjusted for humidity after 30 plus years holding up wires with nothing but air around it. Yes these are untreated western red cedar poles.

Needless to say the entire Vardo will not be made out of rot resistant western red cedar.

Call makers, Bud and his son do have quite a bit stabilized a spalted maple burl's and other spalted hardwoods on hand. I would be happy to get you some pieces at Langhoffs cost and you pay the shipping. Any thickness you want I presume. They also have some really nice clear walnut, hard maple, cherry, hickory, dried to around 44% humidity (today's humidity in the shop)


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## glenway

Good to have those connections, Larry. Can't wait for some pics!

My neighbor works at a lumber yard specializing in custom milling. He delivers a flatbed truckload of what they term "rippings" in 16-foot lengths to me whenever I want some. The dang stuff piles up and becomes quite a liability to them, so they are always pleased for someone to take a mess of it. They come in 4-6 foot diameter bundles and I'm always sorting through them for exotic stuff including walnut, mahogany, lots of oak, maple, poplar - you name it. I save it for projects, but most of it is burned for garage heat.


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## Larry

I have seen the bundles you talk about Glen. They make for great firewood. I can also see where you could find some jewels in the rough within them. At Langhoffs they use there scrap wood for the kiln. Glen I agree its great to know people and friends. Our town of Cedar Rapids is not huge but not small maybe 130,000 folks And I have yet to go anywhere where I don't know someone. Its a great feeling.


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## pokeyjeeper

Larry do they have any cherry burl or Birdseye maple


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## Larry

Holy crapola batman....my memory is not as good as I thought. Seems I forgot my other my other call making buddies. My sincerest apologies to all.

They have some spalted maple. Nothing in chunks 2x2 or 2x3...however they have a few planks left in one inch thickness and varying widths/lengths.

Some guys came up from Missouri and bought allot of the sawn Cherry, Maple and other burals yesterday. But Brad says he has more stashed away just not cut.

Tell you what Ill take my good camera with me next trip,( they are 15 mins from my house) and Ill snap some pictures and post prices. Brad and Bud have allot of different wood, even blue pine like CatCapper runs across.

Not mention some of the straightest grained oak and walnut a gut can find.

They are also experts in repairing snall old tractors, like Farmhall H & M's, Fords Jubilee to 600 series, Massey Ferguson, Oliver 77 & 88 to name just a few.

Here's a sample.of some spalted maple I sent Ed and Don.


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## pokeyjeeper

Good looking stuff there


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## Larry

Jeep is done and I have one month and a week before I start gathering deer bait for trapping. Thus I went to the sawmill and picked up my 50 year old western cedar sawed telephone pole lumber today with the stock trailer. QTY 9- 2 x4's and 12- 2 x 8's. These full width and thickness boards, none of that dimensional stuff.

Ill put them on the joiner tomorrow and clean them up then hit them with a coat of Thompson Water Seal to prevent them from turning grey again.

Oh,,,, Nice thing is these are full 16 foot length boards. Now since they were delivered by the utility company and were free, the cost was $1.50/ board foot. Great thing is no knots just good grain.

Once that is done, the roof build begins...will take a week. I am building it on the ground and will lift it in place.

Larry


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## 220swift

looking forward to seeing your progress Larry.........


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## glenway

Same here.


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## pokeyjeeper

Get r done it's almost time


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## Larry

Morning to all......thought I would share this link for Plat Maps. http://gisworkshop.com/

Reason why I put it in good morning is because I just got off the phone from Law Office in New York that apparently controls land for a client I would like to trap. Should I get this permission I will add another 335 square miles to my trap line and finally have enough I can do a annual management program like the men in Montana do.

Never thought I would see the day when I call New York to Trap/hunt predators in Nebraska.

Maybe if I get it Ill be looking for a pair of mules, harnesses and a wagon.


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## Ruger

Looks like "Home sweet home " to me.


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## Larry

OK I will post some photos tommorow. The Trapping Vardo is now Called a Mobile Trappers Cabin. The name change is a techical thing. I changed the roof design to a standadr gable roof instead of a vardo curved roof. So technically it is not a vardo any more.

Rafter fittings and patterns done today. I have about 8 more to cut from my pattern board and get them screwed into the ridge pole and sides.

I laugh every time I saw western red cedar as I immediately go my youth and sharpening pencils with held pencil sharpeners. You know the plastic ones with the razor blade andgled to the pencil insert hole. To me it was a smell you never forget. Hahaha;

Should I start a new thread called Mobile Trappers Cabin?


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## youngdon

No, you'd just separate the information into two spots and many won't ever look for a second thread. 
pencil sniffer ?


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## Larry

Better then eating glue!


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## Larry

You can see the round rafter roof I was going to make. But then after some thought I wanted a cabin not a gypsy wagon.









Here I was a few weeks ago trimming up some rough sawn 2 x 4's for the ridge beam and the rafters. I have a 1966 Craftsman Jointer, since I dont have a plainer it worked ok. Just tough handling that 16 foot ridge beam on it. I could of used another set of hands in addition to Mrs. S. I am a lucky man to have a lady that undertsands wood construction stuff.

















In this photo I am laying out the ridge and making adjustments. Not typical constrytion stuff, but you make do with a level trailer and a square.









Rafters went up this morning. Life is good when you have the right tools. Who ever invented the compound miter saw deserves a beer or three. I rember the old days of cutting rafter bevels with a hand saw, with the miter the rafter to ridge joint looks very nice. I am looking forward to trimming out and installing my used window sashes. Sorry its upside down thats the way it loaded. Either stand on your head or flip your device Hahaha.









Just a slight inside look at the rafters to the sky. For some reason I always liked looking at the skeltion of houses and seeing whats really under all that covr up. Its a beutiful thing looking at frames. Especially when the frame wood is 50 years old telephone poles.















I was going to glue, but red cedar tite grain does not split like yellow pine. I am driving in QTY-2 Number 9 coated, 3 inch screws into each rafter at the ridge and the side.

Note the 2 x 4's are on side instead of edge. Thats deliberate to allow for more head room. And the beam look. At a full 2 inches thick and 4 feet long, plus almost no notts we have great strength.

Gotta go get materials. The rood is designed to take a full sheet of 4 x 8 anything. with no cutting except to butt sheets. Which is easy when the 2 x 4 are flat. The first anything will be 1/4 inch beaded plywood, for the ceiling. It will go ontop the 2 x 4's so they remain exposed, just as rafter are exposed in real cabins, just scaled down thats all. The beaded plywood will get a coat of Thonpson so it belends with the Cedar.

New update comming soon......


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## glenway

Lotta wood. You might need a Binder to drag it around and up and down.

Good project and it sure doesn't look like a backyard contraption. Very nice. Hope it's all you intended. What is the expected weight?


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## Larry

Dont bet on it Glen. The point of using western red cedar is it light. If not pencils would weigh 1lb per. I

have never worked with the stuff but by far its my favorite wood. I

usede to like hard maple....but hands down western red cedar has it beat. At 23 pounds per cubic feet kiln dried and I have 190 board feet which converts to ~16 cubic feet. So 16 x 23 = 368lbs for the rafters. Walls weigh 245lbs.. THus I am close to 600lbs for materials without roof sheathing.

I expect to be ubder ,1000 lbs' ...Trailer with cabin should be right at #3600., which will be a brease to towe as the trailer has equuilizer bars.


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## catcapper

You should a least install some collar ties on the rafters.

awprint:


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## Larry

I have been pondering that for weeks Cat. I want to keep the 6' 4" headroom thus I went to instalation of hammer beam's on each end. With the front hammer beam still required added diagnol bracing. Should I do go with collar ties they will be butted to the underide of the ridge beam and will be steel for astehtic appeal.

The trailer has a railing on it and through bolts are placed through the steel railing top and bottom and wall studs are be bolted to them. If you notice the there is no double wall plate. This is intentional to save weight and wood. Instead on the short outside 5' walls, a single 2 x 4 screwed into the toungue and groove and layed on edge to the rafters remains at the top of both sides outside the walls. Once all wall studs are in place to match the interior decor they will have a single 1/4 -20 stove bolt through the wall stud and the wall outside wall beam.

Because I was able to lay the 4' rafters flat, they are screwed to the outside ridgebeam using two number 9, 3" long plated screws. I am still considering hurricane ties, Because of road vibration in the 50Hz range.

40 inches from the front wall will be two studs with the bed frame floor joist tying the front wall together again. In other words 40 inches from the the hammer beam and ~ 3 feet from the rafter will be a bed joist spanning 7 feeet of the interior wall.

Why did I not use glue? I read the specs on consumer available glue and I could find none subtible for high peel and shear strength properties and still withstand thermal cycling. All were tested at ambient temps (27C). Great for inside the home and stagnet duty. But what is the modulas of them for thermal cycling and road vibration?

Thus I chose course thread fasthener as with my light load of 3500lbs and a road vibration frequency of 50hz traveling 50mph they should hold for Cedar. However, if my build material was hardwood with a much lower modulus of elasticity the design would of included more through bolts. Nice thing about soft woods such as wetsern red cedar with its olish fiber. When that fiber is compressed with screws, the fibers modulas of elasticity really increaces. Unlike other none olily woods like yellow pine that wants to split.

Shame I could not afford teak! Hahaha


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## glenway

I used tongue and groove, knotty cedar on my garage siding. Holds up well over time and very lightweight.


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## Larry

Cat...I know how you hate college people and big words, so forgive me for throwig out all the crap on glues and stuff. I just wanted to pull your leg a little.

Fact is I agree with you, but how do I reinforce those rafters to the ridge without losing head room. If I made the trailer higher and didn't have a curved front like modern day campers, I would be pullling against allot of wind. I measudered my cousins trailer, (reciver type not 5ht wheel) his has 7 feet high ceilings.

I am considering straooing the rafters over the top of the ridge. I would put a screw into the ridge beam, then a couple into each rafter. I could bolt the rafters I suppose with a single 1/4-20 stove bolt, with the nut end nestled in a shallow hole to make it flush.

I do appreciate your input, and I know after building two houses of my own, only years of building experience from a great great carpenter would alllow anyone to notice toot sweet I had no collars. .

Larry


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## Larry

glenway said:


> I used tongue and groove, knotty cedar on my garage siding. Holds up well over time and very lightweight.


Only a very rich man can afford T&G knotty pine on their garage. I bet your last name is a staged, and your real last name is Rockefeller or Vanderilt isn't it! Pssst don't forget to put a blanket on Allis its getting cold out! Don't want the old girl to catch a cold! Or maybe have her curl up with the Binder.


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## glenway

Only did the front with cedar; the rest is vinyl. And, when it snows, those ol' machines can get the job done. I'll do a video, if it ever snows again.

I'm currently restoring this porch and all the ballusters, Newell posts, and columns are cedar. Very lightweight and a good choice for the job.


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## Larry

Looks very nice Glen..great craftsmanship and painting

Cat, first off thankypu for the input! Ill take as much as you want to throw my way. I promise Ill leave the text book stuff out next time!

I ended up straping the rafters over the ridge beam. I found 1 1/4 inch wide, 18 inch long, 24 gauge straps at Home Depot. With the straps and a future 2 inch rafter support ledge on both sides of the ridge beam, I doubt Ill have and issue with sag or walls pulling in. Best thing is I maintained head room.


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## prairiewolf

Larry, what is the height at the bottom of the beam? couldnt you put some smaller collar ties laying flat just under the beam ? I wouldnt worry about wall coming in, I would be worried about walls going out with a snow load on the roof. JMO


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## Larry

6'10 to the bottom od the ridge. 5'6" sidewalls. (6/12 pitch, makes an easy 25.5 degree mitercut for ridge rafters Ended 6 inch taller sidewalls, so I can get bunk beds in the front.

The walls wiil be be firm I belive. The sidewall studs are through bolted at the floor and the top to to the 2 x 3 angle around the trailer. The rail is 12 inches high.

Teir will be various support objects on the inside. Like a vanity for the cooking area. About 40 inches into the cabin from the front will be the bunk bed frame. In the rear there will be wall top to floor shelves for storage 12 inches wide. All bolted to the floor.

Continue with the concerns men. Its how I avoid mistakes. I welcome all.


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## prairiewolf

Ok, if the height is 6'10" how tall are you? lol the angle , I am taking as angle iron, right.? that would help but if it were me, I think I would still put collar ties, with the bottoms of them just clearing my height (yours). but I am an old school carpenter and you know all those new fangled engineer facts, lol I am one that still uses an armstrong saw a lot, so many younger carpenters I know dont even know what they are !


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## glenway

"...so many younger carpenters I know dont even know what they are !"

Let alone how to sharpen one.


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## Larry

I used to be 6'1" now I am 5' 11" after 1/2 dozen or so back surgeries. With that you are correct I have head room.

So Ed in a common static postion and winds up to 60mph and perpendicular to the roof at 47 degrees, my supporting ridge board and none collared rafters are acceptable to support an average fresh snow of 5 inches with a weeght of 5 lbs. Roof area is 128 square feet x 5lbs/ sqaure feet = 640lbs. Now the ridge will support 1/2 of this and the rafters will support the other 1/2.

However ED, my Mobile Trappers Cabin is not static. Its a dynamic structure, per say.

Because it is dynamic its not on a common foundation or at best confined to paved roads, I have to remind myself this is an off road cabin also. Going down a trail and hitting a 3 inch gopher mound at 15mph will indeed put allot of stress on the upper walls, the rafters and ridge beam. Despite the rood being tied together together with plywood sheathing and the walls fastend to a welded frame, T&G and being 1/2 thinck with the grain horizontal to the trail. The worst scenerio is not a bump but twisting as the trailers axle rides high on just one side on a narrow trail .

I invision it as a high cornered right triangle where all legs of the triangle feel pressure to remain perpendicular to each other. Thank goodness for balls on our hitches or even on higways our trailers would be twisted with welds breaking from fatigue.

In retropsect bolting the wall studs to the frame makes things worse regarding the fastners of the cabin frame. As a free standing structure would move dependent of the trailer frame and the mass of the trailer would not be added to the cabin structural fastner postions and/or fasteners with a potential of 1/3 of the trailer weight or 547psi per fastner nominal based on a 1666 lb trailer.

Sorry but that is how engineers think. To many years of analyzing to the 9th degree makes us weird. Often driving the best wives like Mrs. S to just say STOP! Which I will. Don't believe go here...http://engineersedge.com/beam_bending/beam_bending2e.htm..I actually was up till 4AM wondering what I was missing when two carpenters say hey use support collars Larry!

I' ll add collar ties to at least every other rafter if not due to static snow load but do to twist and weight of the trailer. Besides I can attach my interior LED lights to the collars!

Yep I am considering total off grid with solar and a battery.

A huge thanks to Ed and Cat both!! Because of you guys I would of never considered all the variables this rolling trappers cabin will be put through. Heck I have seen grain carts with 600lbs of corn and 12 inch diameter, 7/16 wall tube frames twist, no reason my cabin would not do the same. In fact most grain cart now have movable joints on each axle and toungue to relieve twist. Thank you both very much.

Glen....we all know you sharpen a Armstrong Saw using Elbow Grease! Unless you have a mechanical Armstrong band saw blade sharpener.


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## catcapper

I still sharpen all my hand saws Glen. I like'em "sharp" and I can set my own pitch if I choose.

My mill blades have a lot of teeth and they're hard, so I rigged up a sharpening bench to speed things up a bit.


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## glenway

Never had anything like that, Cat. Just a 3-corner file and a saw set and an overhead light to look for shiny teeth from above.

It will be interesting to see how the camper works out, Larry. When do you expect to have it on the road?


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## Larry

Cat...your setup looks like a minature version of a Armstrong Company comercial sharpener setup. I bet that t

ool would do a nice job on hand saws also.

Glen..It was supposed to be on the road last Nov. I am hopeful Ill have the outside complete and the bed in by early Oct. But I as I told Cam I have had a few setbacks.

...Next year will be the interior.I can get by with portable stuff, no different then all those years in the tent on the line. Besides Mrs. S. is particular what she wants. As she agreed to camp with me, I will make it to her liking. I draw the line at no flowered wall paper! Understand, I did see small claw foot tub at an antique shop when I was looking at door/ window hardware last fall. If i can get them down a $100 she just may get one. it was 43" long. Katula's has an on demand propane hot water heater for around $100, that would be a luxury even for me. Even for making instant hot oatmeal and bathing/washing after fleshing.

...My plan for water is simple, just a hose with a 12 volt pump. I can easuly suck water from a stock tank in winter. When we are at a campground, of course just hook up to the water drop.


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## Larry

One side of the steel roof is down and Ill get the other side of the steel roof down today. Ill try to get some photos of how its done. Pretty easy process butits still brand new to me. One thing I learned when you put a steel roof down all other issues with an unsquare roof can be solved easily. Had I know that I would not of been so concerned when I put up the beedboard ceiling panels. Oh well at least I know the entire roof and ceiling is square to withing a 1/8" inch corner to corner.

Heat wave comming later in the week. That means the interior gets stained. Beadbord and walls.

If you see things in the photo like a window sash hanging, a 2 x 8 red cedar support all of that. Those are put there foor finich ideas. I often sit at the patio table and think about things. Like do I want the window to slide or br hinged and swing out. How to I want to completer the support poles for the porch, etc. Guess thats how things are down when you have no plans and you can modifiy during the build.

Its finnaly looking like something and final trim and finish ideas are getting discussed in ernest the Mrs. and myself.

I did some calcs on weight now that I have the steel roofing bought along with the beadboard plywood. Looks like I am going to be a tad over 1500lbs for the Cabin without any cabinets or bed frame. Add in 1600 for the trailer and we are looking at 3200-3500 towing weight. Maybe I wound need my equilizer hitch, NOT, I don't care the weight, that equilizer makes the trailer and Suburban one.


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## glenway

I like the sheltered porch. Sure looks good, Larry.


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## Larry

Glen your too kind. I am finding out my carpenter skills are poor at best anymore. Had allot of issues I should of thought about ahead of time but over the years I forgot. That has caused a quite a few reworks.


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## pokeyjeeper

Wow that's cool now I want one as Glenway said that covered porch is great


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## glenway

Inventions are that way, Larry. Nothing new about re-doing stuff. Heck, if Thomas Edison didn't get past reworks, we'd still be burning the midnight oil in the literal sense. I think I even invented some new swear words when I was working on my last tractor project. It goes with the territory. It'll be our little secret.


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## Larry

Heres is the opposite side of the cabins roof just before installation of the metal roofing. I put 2 layers of 30lb felt down on the beadboard mostly to stop sweating of the ceiling as Ill heat with porpane. I was going to inssulate, but I was prefitting the ridge cap and I noticed a good movement of air from the eave to the ridge. I did not want to hinder that.









Because of thre small roof, I am abandoning common eave and gable closure. Instead I am using 2 1/2" drip edge on the gable and eave for a cleaner look. Over the porch the drip edge will go under the rooffing as it does on the waves. On the hitch end the roofing will go under the drip edge to keep the air over the roofing material and not under it. I will use double sticky foam taper to seal the hitch end.

For those that have never put up a steel roof like me they make a sealant high desity under and over foam. Its precut to match the valleys and ridges in the steel. To assure it never moves you screw right through it and trust me no wind, water or wasp can get under your roof.









Every trapper needs a trapping dog. Well training starts early. Sir Harry Winston is now completely trained to sleep on the porch. Once in awhile he will open his eyes just to make sure I don't fall off the ladder, but most of the day he's sleeping no matter the saw or drill noise! Cant wait to turn him loose to find a yote caught in a drag set! hahaha

View attachment 27194


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## prairiewolf

Looks great Larry and I bet it will be a little more comfotable than the tent, lol


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## Larry

Thanks Ed!

Roof will be done today, then I can return to the ground (knees hurt from all that ladder stuff!). I am anxious to frame in and hinge the free windows sashes I got from my neighbor and get a door on it. Then Ill get a heater ordered and popane tanks hooked up!

There will be a little work on the interior this fall as I am running low on time.

Next season Ill spend allot of time on the interior , building allot of storage, seating, shower/toilet, solar power panels et . Oh yeah it will get air conditoning!

Larry


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## azpredatorhunter

Nice Larry... Don't forget to cut two holes in the bottom for ice fishing ????


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## Larry

Had a setback today regarding work on the trailer. On the way home from my sons town a 77 year old man side swiped the old Suburban in a construction zone.

I did not call the police as the guy seemed to have enough stress. We exchanged info and when all was said and done, he said to me. "Can you hlpe me get out of here I don't undertsand all this cones and what do I do at the light?" I stopped traffic, the man ran over a cone and finnaly made his way out of the zone. Poor guy!

His damage was a broken mirror, mine was the paint from his mirror making a red stripe and a long dent from my rear doors to the taillight. Then when he bumped away he pushed in my rear quarter panel a tad. Mine $3,000 -44,000 in damage I presume, his $500!

Larry


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## Larry

Weather is great and I feel like working. Yesteday I cut and test fitted the the door. Today Ill build a door jam for it. the door came from the restore...solid maple and for just $30.00. Like the telephone poles cut for the cabins backbone, I bet that door is old...maybe 75- 100 years?









At my old craftsman table saw after working the door, I modified one of several old window sashes. (47 ears old) I aquired free from a neighbor who was getting new ones on her house windows two years ago. This was a test to see how the others could be modified. I don't believe I will change a thing, that old sah never looked so pretty, until my wife adds amke up and makes it even better!









After the glue dried on the sash modfications I trimmed the excess wood and built a window frame. Several decades ago my father in law chewed me out for not making the window stool at a slant to shed water. I never forgot that event. Last evening I made the most beutifdly slanted (20 degrees) window stool a man could of ever made ! Hahaha. Once the farme was built using a drop light I installed it in the cabin and the sash was put in temporaritly. Today will be hinged at the top to swing out ( casement window) with a lock at the bottom. I have some old car window molding Ill modify for window seals also.


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## glenway

Coming along nicely. I feel the same about the cooler weather. Makes a person feel alive again.


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## prairiewolf

Looking good !


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## pokeyjeeper

Coming along good keep it up


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## Larry

thankyou....hope to have it done this week......my wife who is the best, is painting, staining and varnishing windows today. While I put breaks pads on her Mercedes....she may be spoiled but she is still my best firend!

When she is done and I have some more trim up Ill post an update photo


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## Larry

Here is how old guys think when they are building something. I need to keep my hygene up on the trapline and trust me doing a sponge bath is a pain. A regular RV shower system would be nice but that means I need pumps, hot water heaters, lots of tubing, etc. etc...

Three days ago an old frinds son stopped. I was telling him how back to the days when we could drink beer at 18. We would get a keg, a tap, and with a hadn pump we had all had beer we needed. No eletricity, no mess no fuss. Just pump some pressure into the keg and beer came out the spigot. . Bars are exactly the same I found out but they use compressed CO2 as air and beer don' mix.

So heres the deal. Larry buys and empty keg, and then a separet a tap with a pressure input, and a relief valve. Rinse the beer out and fill it with water, use a 12 volt portable tire pump to add pressure. If the keg sits on one of these






I would have hot water for a shower!!

Last night I got a 15.5 gallon keg at the resturant my son is the executive chef at. Ebay has taps, with reiefs and pressure inputs for 30-40 dollars. Now I can take ~3 showers all with warm water!

Final Note......windows come back from getting new glaze today. 10.000 BTU heater will arrive next Wed. By this Sunday Oct 8 2017 the Cabin will be road worthy! Pictures coming soon...

Larry


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## prairiewolf

What a waste of a keg ! lmao

We use to take an old refrigerator place a keg inside and drill hole for tap in the side and wa la cold tap beer, problem was always to many friends showing up all the time.


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## Larry

Its empty Ed, beers all drank, calm down, whoooooo ED, its empty !!!

Besides it held some of that craft beer stuff.

It not wasted just temporarily repurposed anyhow, You don't want me to run all the yotes out of the upper plains with my body stink would yah?

Now how do I clean beer residue out of a keg??


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## glenway

Looks like overkill for a shower. I use the Zodi unit and with a portable blind in camp and the shower head held from above, it gets the job done. No need for a large-capacity holding tank, either.

Here is a link to the shower unit:

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Zodi-Zip-Shower/1237066.uts?slotId=1

Oh, yeah, you can stink up the upper plains as much as you want. Hey, maybe you could change the way 'yotes are hunted by "driving" them to shooters posted up. Don't need no stinkin' dog for that.


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## Larry

Glen...Ill look at that. Thankyou.

If I get one, then the beer keg would just be a 15.5 gallon water supply. But I wont need that on the plains as their are water tanks filled by widmills about every 2-5 miles. I usually camp by one.

Heres the heater I bought folks, will be here Tuesday. From the internet most guys are saying with the thermostat it will run 10hours/day for 4 days on a 20lb tank. Time will tell. Same for the condesation build up.









I am getting a tad excited, Sir Harry Winston and I took and afertrnoon nap in it with it pouring down rain, I and he slept like a baby!


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## Larry

No new photos. Outside traim also done. Soffit is done. I had a crack around the outside where the siding meets the trailers floor angle iron. I sealed it up yesterday with some black pond foam to match the color of the trailer. I caulked everything on the outside. Rear window and door trim is done.

One more window frame to make and hang the sash and install on the side (passenger side if your towing) . Mrs S will the the sash and stain.

Also the board cracks in the floor will be sealed and filled with expandable foam today. I she cracks. ealed the floor boards a week ago now I can seal the cracks. This is all in preparation of the installing 1.5 inch high desity foam board on the floor. Then 3/8 underlayment rolled 1/4 inch insulation and then snap together flooring we took out of our house when we installed solid oak flooring.

Ill get some photos taken today if the rain lets me. THis whole thing is going way slow. Guess I am in worst shape than I thought. A younger Larry would of had it done a couple weeks not a year.

Larry


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## Larry

Heres a photo after I filled the cracks in the trailer floor. I used Dap wide crack foam. After it dried I trimmed it level with the vibrating tool. In fact I did the same around the outside of the trailer expept there I used Dap Balck colored pond foam. Seemed to work very well and should keep any salt sprayn from wet highways out of the cracks.









Today my grandson was up. So I cut him loose measuring and cutting the foam for the floor and 3/8 plywood for the floor. (Pun intended) , He is just turned 16 and is really doing well learning how to do things.

Here is the 1 1/2 R-7 foam we put over the trailer planking after its cracks were sealed and trimmed.









After that we topped the foam with 3/8 plywood. Tp hold the foam down 3 inch deck screws went through the plywood and into the trailer decking. To make sure all stayed in place, it was fastened every 18 inches. Closer on seams and near the door.









Two years ago I put in 400 square foot of oak floors in our house. Part of that operation was removing 144 square foot of snap together 3/8 wood planks. Thos will go on top of the 3/8 plywood. I put a few down to see how they wood look against the Cedar. They are a go and will be installed this week. Nice think is the finish is smmoth and tough, will be easy to clean.









Last year as gift my son gave me a door knocker. At te time it was all he could find. He said try it and if he doesn't like it he'll replace it. I put it up and sent him this: ,,, :smile:









Winston really likes the Cabin. When I am working he has to be with me. The bed of course is his foavorite, however when I can't be seen he goes to the windpow to find me.


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## pokeyjeeper

Cool pictures thanks for sharing


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## glenway

Coming right along! I like the laminate flooring and your repurposing of the material, but you'll have to be careful not to get the stuff too wet or it will fail.


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## Larry

Glen this is engineered flooring not laminated. Its solid oak just machined thin with a baked on polyurethane finish gauranteed not to delam. The finish was warranted for 30 years. It was tested by Winston as a pup many times :naughty:

However, I wonder how it will hold up if temps get to -10 to -20 as they do in our area. Time will tell.

The flooring, a wall for the bathroom, second window installtion, making the sides for the bed, and when we get to the 70's later in the week, the trim will get a dose of sealer, Last will be running propane lines hanging the heater and small propane grill. Hope to have it ready by this weekend.


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## Larry

Last window went in this morning. If all go well I am on schedule to complete the floor tomorrow and make the frame for the mattress. Thats the end of the big stuff. After that its making it comfortable for trapping season. I did order a propane tank holder this AM it will be here the 30th. I figure that's a hour job to install. (I hope)

BTW...those 6 x 6 treated post are really holding up one heck of a load...NOT! But they look cool I think! haha

Here yah go...a little more paint on the last window and after the caulk sits up over night Ill weatherize the bare wood frame.

[pictures are a tad better and aligned correctly, you see I retired my old iPhone 4 yesterday and am the proud owner of a hand me down iPhone-5s ! :look: ]


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## catcapper

The 2X trim on the corners and windows looks pretty good--- a 2X face board on the rafter tails would give it a bit more style.

awprint:


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## Larry

Thanks Cat...I still need to get collar ties installed also before it hits the road. My delay is I am waiting to see what wood I have left to work with.


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## prairiewolf

Now that looks sweet !! but with that rocker on there I wouldnt get anything done nowadays. Would be drinking coffee in the morning, beer during the day and back to coffee at night, oh what a life !!


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## Larry

Good point Ed! I better leave it home! hahaha


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## glenway

Sweet!


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## Larry

Floor is done!

1) sealed the joints in the flatbed planks with expanding foam

2) installed 7.5 R pink sheet foam sheets over the planks,

3) screwed 3.8 plywood through the foam sheathing in the planks

4) installed plastic and 3/16 blue vapor barrier foam under-layment over the plywood

5) installed the floating engineered oak floor

Results...one shiny and very durable floor, easy to clean and very water repellent, We know Winston pee'd on it when he was a puppy. Cost new...~$450.00...cost reused...free









BTW...when your put floor down with your wife as an assistant, you start slow smoked brisket for her at 4AM. When all was complete we dined Texas style. Fresh slow smoked brisket (rubbed and allowed to sit 48 hours with my secret rub). The brisket planks were splashed with homemade BBQ sauce then coleslaw on top. A side of potato salad and one cold beer as the wash.


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## Larry

I have been watching my Cabin weight using an Excel spreadsheet.

Some numbers I used were shipping numbers on Menards website,,,others were calculators on the net for wood weight.

Note: I added extra to wood moisture content to adjust for humidity. 17% is what I used yes is high but I wanted to be conservative.

My estimate for the Cabin Enclosure with Two full propane 20lb tanks , Twin Mattress, windows, door and flooring comes to 1619 lbs.

My actual flatbed trailer weight on certified scales is 1678 lbs.

Total estimated weight of the whole rig at this time is 3297 Lbs.

My goal is 4,000 lbs loaded,,,traps, food, clothing, guns, books, heater, toilet, shower heater etc. Ill be close,,,but we'll see what the scales say is a week!


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## Larry

Cost...everyone is curious to know what I spent....

Here's a quick and dirty breakdown of what I spent....anything not listed was something I had or got for free. IE: window sashes came from Rose our neighbor who had her windows replaced :greedy: :greedy: :greedy:

As for the trailer...I bought it after the floods of 1993. Cost for a 7,000lb flatbed trailer that was under 7 feet of water...$650. Cost of cleaning up the axles and electric brakes...$3.50 for tub of wheel bearing grease! :greedy: :greedy: :greedy:

T & G Cedar....~$300

190 BF of Dimensional Red Cedar ` $300

Roofing ..... ~$290

Flooring ,,,, $112

Misc screws, caulk, paint, hinges ... ~$75

Door .... ~$35

10'000 BTU heater .... $156

Total `$1268.00 or 15 Nebraska coyotes!


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## Larry

Was 19 degrees here this morning at 3:30 AM. Sir Harry Winston joined me in the Cabin and we fired up the 10,000 BTU Blue Flame Ice house heater from Mr. Heater.

I lay 'ed in the bed and watched the temp steadily climb on the thermometer. Without a blanket or any covers except the Winston at my legs I fell asleep on the single bed.

Phew, what a sleep, I awoke at 8:30 this morning. I checked the thermometer and the Cabin was at warm 73 degrees. Peek ceiling temp was 84. That was with the thermostat on the heater set at 1. I noticed the heaters thermostat had shut down the flame and it was putting on pilot light.

I am happy, as Nebraska winters are about 15- 22 average winter temps. Yes its gets to well below 0 but that' s just for a night or two.

My only complaint is the windows steaming over with water. They are old single pane sashes. I suppose Ill add one of those interior window kits. You've seen them on TV, its the kind, that you put a layer of plastic over them. Next year Ill make up some removable storm windows to fit over them.

I am glad I did not seal the wood on the interior. No sweating because of that. I suspect if I would of varnished it it would be raining in there. At least here in Iowa. I suspect in the plains I wont have the issue as humidity runs very low in winter.


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## Larry

Just turned on the cabin heater on at 4PM. I did this to see how it performs as its been relocated to one of the first of two walls to surround the bathroom area.

Nothing fancy in this interior wall build folks. Just a wall to divide the bathroom, hang the heater, add a desk, and add maybe a drawer or two, Today Ill add some shelves / hooks also for cooking supplies.

Again its left simple by deign as next season most of it will be upgraded to put in more refined woodworking. Right now its just one cut above a 14 years old tree fort build. Good enough for me...Ill just be sleeping/eating there. Will be nice to have a shower.

I wont have a normal shower. Just a bucket with warm water and a cup. Their will be a pan on the floor to catch the water and a chair to sit in. I feel two gallons is enough to get wet, lather up and rinse off. The drain to the shower will go overboard, no holding tank, A little soapy water never polluted anything.

The toilet is my Luggable loo (bucket seat bag inside and a real toilet seat. When you all done, throw in the TP, grab a cup of sawdust and throw it on top. All done until spring when it becomes compost. Ill add some decomposed leaves when I get home to help it along.

Bathroom size is 48" x 37" . Shower Pan is 27" x 32" Acutally, for a camper its a good sized bathroom.

The second wall being built today, will either have a pocket door or barn door for privacy.

As for the wall's , I chose 5/8" x 6" x 6' cedar fence dogeared pickets for wall covering. Menards for $2.70 each!

As they are attached to the ceiling rafters, the dog ears were trimmed away in the 25 degree angle. Framework was one yellow pine 2" x 3" for outside wall stud for strength with the rest being 2 x 3 Cedar. Again the Cedar is light that is why I am staying with it.

I went to the farm and borrowed QTY-2, 40lb. LP tanks from my cousins camper. These will be reserved for heating only. Ill have a 20lb LP tank for water heating and simmering my stew and soups.

Still having an issue with sweating on the single pane windows; especially with our Iowa humidity. I may just have to make some Plexiglas storm windows for this season.

Protective shutters will be built from the dog eared pickets and installed today. Remember these are standard house single pane windows, they need road protection as I bet a June bug hit at 55mph would crack one.

I may get a weight today!!!


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## prairiewolf

Hey wait a minute. I thought all the building part was done. I may want to change my weight guess ! lol


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## Larry

ED....if your not over, I will subtract 150 lbs....so you still might win.

Please accept my apology. I forgot you really want that date with Cat! :roflmao:


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## Larry

One more day and I am calling a stop to anymore cabin mods for this season.

1) Install folding table and add kitchen countertop with stainless mixing bowl for sink.

2) Install new shutter latches.

3) Install hold down for kitchen water jug

4) Shower Pan drain pipe.

Completed yesterday.....Final wall for Shower / Toilet area.

Here's what it looked like yesterday just before I iced my knees from all of that up and down stuff.

Twin 29# LB MT (70# Full) Propane Tanks on Porch









Best Photo I could get because its small...32 inches by 42. For now now my shower will be a jungle shower. 2 gal bucket of warm water and a cup to wet down and rinse with. Shower drain is straight through to the ground. That bucket with seat is the infamous and well used Luggable Loo. 15 years old this season! Another bucket will be added for a sawdust holder.









Here is the Bedroom, kitchen, storeroom etc. Dog Bed on the floor, just above it with the red sticker is my heater. Today this area gets updated for the last work this season.









Heater in action.(picture is on side...sorry) Kinda' relaxing feeling the LP heat and watching the Blue Flame from the bed. At 19 degrees outside its 73 degrees on the bed with a setting of 1 on the heater. There are 5 settings. Only drawback is window sweating as they are old single pane sashes. May have to add some plastic on the inside and ruin my veiw...dont know yet.









Tonight Ill cook the Ms supper in the Cabin....Jumalia new favorite trapping food. Then we'll play a game of scrabble.


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## hassell

Looking good.


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## glenway

Looks homey. Well done, Larry.


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## youngdon

Looks comfortable for sure.


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## pokeyjeeper

That turned out great I’m jealous


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## 220swift

That will sure beat the hell out of a canvas tent, great work Larry!


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## Larry

I continue to test the heater position. its not performing near as well as my initial test in the chair. Of course with the bathroom wall air flow changed considerably as the the heater is not in the open. any longer. I started with it hanging with the flame being at bed level. That was too high as the heat stayed high mostly because the rafters were trapping the heat. I lowered it 10 inches yesterday and now that seemed to help. I think today Ill move it to within the minimum 3 inches of the floor and it will be justttttttttttttttttttttt right!









Who would of believed hanging a simple coard on hinges for a table would take 3 fricken hours. As my wife said I over think things way to often these days. Anyway the table is hung on the hinges. ( a 10 minute job at the most) I put in my thoughts for a hinged table leg and tried it. Didn't like that idea so I went with a removable leg mounted at an angle. I sure like my chop saw, Not bragging but with lots of years of practice I have learned to use it so well I can cut any angle to fit perfectly. I did this with the upper and bottom edges of the leg and it fit like it grew there. Aha... I have a folding table 3 0 inches long by 20 inches wide. The table top itself is made from glued up 1-2 inch Apsen from Menards. (yep I got lazy in this one) . Not hard wood but they glued it right with each board having alternate longitudinal grain to prevent warp and twist. All is don.t I thought. I removed the plastic wrap from the purchased board, and guess what? The third board in was not finished, its was scalled by the saw. Why anyone would glue up such a board you got me. I did not see this because of the plastic wrap!

So the whole table had to be taken apart and flipped. Or I have to sand the bad top down an 1/8 of an inch. No way. as its just 3/4 inch.

Finnaly the table its done except finish. Ill use gun stock stain and a polyurethane floor finish to make the top hard.


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## catcapper

Aspen is a hardwood young man :naughty:

awprint:


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## prairiewolf

I still think you asked us to guess the weight to early, lol I may have to double my weight guess !!


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## Larry

catcapper said:


> Aspen is a hardwood young man :naughty:
> 
> awprint:


 hoto: Now look who's expressing book smarts! hoto:

Gotcha... :roflmao:

So be it..." Gentlemen and ladies, here ye, here ye ...there are many hardwoods, but few can match the durable hardwoods like Cherry, Oak, Hickory and Maple for cutting boards and table tops. Aspen being as "Soft" as White Pine would be a poor choice for the woodworker as it nicks and scratches very easily. However, if the woodworker applies a tough two part epoxy finish any wood surface can be made durable. Such as as an 101 Epoxy,; purchased from West Marine. "

However soft wood like Aspen wont throw off Ed's guess on weight! Yes Ed you can thank Menards as I almost tore apart an oak pallet and glued it up. That would of really added some weight! As Oak is a real hardwood not a pine tree with leaves like aspen.


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## Larry

One year and one week today from the original post! The Trap'n Cab'n is ready for use. Yesterday on its first two I had just one problem. As the cabin flexed the door spindle was a tad short to keep the door from opening, I suspected this from the get go as its a very old door and I could not find a long spindle anywhere. Even the Schlage spindles that expand did not help. In a static position it shuts and holds fine however.

A carpenter friend stopped buy and suggested I just replace it with a dead bold. As the spindles on the dead bolts extend into the wood past the strike plate a inch or so. It was a great idea and a fast fix but it meant I would have to use a key every-time I entered the cabin.

He sparked an idea however and I went to Menards and started perusing the few styles of dutch bolts they have. As I was scanning I noticed a silver colored slide bolt lock a gate. The 1/4" bolt itself extended 3 inches past the end of bolt assembly Nice!... now if they had one in black I would be really happy. My lucky day again they had one.

This was perfect it mounted just under the original door latch and the bolt itself extended 3 inches into the middle of the 2 x 3 door frame. No way the door is coming open, Plus it had a double lock feature. Thus when I am in the cabin pranksters can't lock me in as I can lock the bold open and shut with a padlock.









Tested it just before dark and it worked great! I stopped at the gas station and got a few gallons. Lady going to her truck said " hey' Its a tiny house" I rolled down my window and sternly stated "no its a Mobile Cabin! " She said it a beutiful cabin my apoligy...Hahaha.

This morning it goes to Caseys and a few of the morning coffee crowd farmers are having our coffee in the Cabin.

Here is my kitchen area. With the stain Aspen base.









Later.


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## glenway

Nice. But, the hardware you refer to as a spindle is actually the latch in a modern lockset.

I sure am in for some fun when I edit that trapping book of yours, Larry.


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## Larry

So many names over the years Glen. We used to call them Throw bolts or Dead Bolts, or just door knob bolts when we refereed to non mitered lock sets. On the package I had they called it the spindle assembly so I was trying to be correct in these modern times. I suppose they called it this because of the spindle used to push the bolt into the strike plate is attached to the bolt and can be lengthened or shortened.

Its like Cat saying Aspen is a hardwood and not a softwood. Yep, he was 100% correct. But for you and I as flat lander woodworkers we would prefer Hickory or Cherry as Pine/ Aspen would not hold a candle to there hardness,


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## Larry

A couple photos of things added " after" the weigh to make it feel like home this season.

Its officially named the *Trap'n-Cab'n*









My Mrs found these sheets, I added a bookshelf at the end of the bed.









Made this coat rack out of an old broom handle and added a shelf above the heater for coffee, spices and other kitchen needs.


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## prairiewolf

Very nice Larry !!


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## Larry

Thank you very much Ed! It's really appreciated!


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## pokeyjeeper

Man that is one sweet trapping cabin


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## 220swift

looks like you're all set for this season's run.........sure wish I could put some steel in the ground, damn tree huggin liberals......best of luck, may all your chains be tight and all your fur be prime, now go knock the hell out of them Larry !!


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## azpredatorhunter

Nice Larry... Very nice!

Larry, one thing I would bring is a blow dryer and a package of shrink film window coverings, wallymart has a box of ten 3'x5'(duck brand) window covers for $10.99. I am sure you have seen or used them before... There's nothing like ice cold draft coming through a window.


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## Larry

azpredatorhunter said:


> Nice Larry... Very nice!
> 
> Larry, one thing I would bring is a blow dryer and a package of shrink film window coverings, wallymart has a box of ten 3'x5'(duck brand) window covers for $10.99. I am sure you have seen or used them before... There's nothing like ice cold draft coming through a window.


Great minds think alike. I have a kit!

The cabin windows are tight as can be. I used automotive door seals and carpet tacks around the frame. When the sash closes it pushes against the soft hallow core rubber and compresses tight. Plus each sash was professionally re-glazed before install. (I hate glazing and painting!) IMHO each window seal's as well as any new refrigerator.

The problem is they are old single pain windows and they are cold by design. Thus they sweat. I am hoping out west where its more arid this issue will go away. If not Ill shrink wrap them with my window kits. I can borrow a hair dryer from one of the ranch wives or daughters I am sure.

I do have drafts, but they are by design. I do not trust propane or electronic hazardous atmosphere sensors even though the cabin has two. The design came about by accident when it was decided to install the soffit boards without any caulk. This leaves about a 1/4-3/8" gap some 24 feet or so in length. With the gap being on the soffits and the soffits about 2 inches below the sidewalls I can feel good ventilation with little impact on heat loss.

My windows also open from the bottom. This means I can have one "cracked" open when I sleep with little worry about allot of wind or cold blowing in. Casement style windows such as what I built also keep the moisture out while having a window open.

Its not perfect, but hey its a cabin. For what its worth and Ill say it first. I am an engineer not a craftsman...big difference in both! But both make the world a better place when they work together.


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## SWAMPBUCK10PT

Larry said:


> A couple photos of things added " after" the weigh to make it feel like home this season.
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> Its officially named the *Trap'n-Cab'n*
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> My Mrs found these sheets, I added a bookshelf at the end of the bed.
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> Made this coat rack out of an old broom handle and added a shelf above the heater for coffee, spices and other kitchen needs.
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Congrats on your Cabin Build Larry -----Very ,Very Nice--------svb


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