# Can any one help me?



## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

I am starching my first hide. Does this look right?


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## Mattuk (Oct 16, 2010)

Bloody hell thats a big looking raccoon!


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

Thanks Matt. I was hoping I did it right. It is a lot different drying one thin mounting one. The skinning and fleshing is two different things.


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## Mattuk (Oct 16, 2010)

Oh I've no idea if thats right buddy but that raccoon never missed a meal!


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

Lol yup he was a good size one.


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## Mattuk (Oct 16, 2010)

Did you weigh it?


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

I'll agree that is one big raccoon. Was his belly hair wore thin ?


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

Nop I forgot to weigh him. And from what I could teal the billy hair is ok. I am new to drying and every thing. Never had to do all this win I am mounting them other thin flesh and salt thin tan. I guess I am getting the hang of starching and drying them.


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## SWAMPBUCK10PT (Apr 5, 2010)

*looks to be put-up well-----as he dries wipe the grease and oil thats shows up makes for a nice hide*


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## coyotejon (Feb 4, 2010)

Looks good! If you want better prices on your raccoons out them up on wood! Good going buddy!


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## Mick105 (Jan 6, 2012)

Looks good to me, nice job Skinner.


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

Ok thanks every one. I skinned the raccoons out, flashed, washed in dawn, brushed out hair thin put on starcher.

Thanks coyote I'll look in to getting some boards.


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## Mick105 (Jan 6, 2012)

Skinner, do you wash them in dawn to help remove the grease?


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

Yup I'll let them soak for about 15 mins. And the hair side to.


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## Mick105 (Jan 6, 2012)

I never thought of that. Thanks for the tip


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## 220swift (Mar 2, 2011)

coyotejon said:


> Looks good! If you want better prices on your raccoons out them up on wood! Good going buddy!


Have things changed on putting up raccoon. Used to be wire stretchers for raccoon was the preferred method. It's been a long time since I put up any raccoon.


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## coyotejon (Feb 4, 2010)

Yup. The auction houses are saying wood for everything except rats. I wasn't trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I know that the local buyers I have sold to and NAFA both prefer wood for pretty much everything!


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## 220swift (Mar 2, 2011)

Thanks CJ, good to know.


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## Mick105 (Jan 6, 2012)

Last year I asked my fur buyer what his thoughts were on wood stretchers for raccoon and he said to stick with wire. I put mine up how he wants them, maybe I would get more if I used wood and a different buyer, who knows. I'm not trying to say anyone is right or wrong, just putting it out there.


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

What is the diff between wood and wire?


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## Skinner712 (Jan 7, 2012)

Mick the down pulls a lot of the grease out. I do it to bear, boar, groundhog, & raccoon after I flash them before I put them on salt to mount them. This hole hide drying if new to me. I have been doin taxidermy since 2002. There is a big difference in the both. The done wash helps pull blood and drift out to.


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## Mick105 (Jan 6, 2012)

I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but here are some Pro's and Con's of each taken from another site (no my opinion). Personal preference is a big part to in my opinion but other may disagree.

WIRE STRETCHERS
Advantages:
1. They are relatively cheap.
2. When used for stretching Raccoon, Muskrat,
Wild Mink, Fox, Coyote, etc., they are very quick
and efficient.
3. They are very labour- and cost-effective and generally
easier to handle than wood. The bigger operations
use wire since hooking only into the tail and hind feet,
wage costs are lower. In smaller operations,
the handler who scrapes the animal will also stretch
it. In bigger operations, the scraping and stretching
is done separately. Scraping is piece work, stretching
and hanging the pelt is usually done by the hour.
4. Wire stretchers are not as bulky as wood.
5. Wire stretchers are readily available in trap
supply stores.

Disadvantages:
1. Non-galvanized stretchers and those galvanized
stretchers where the galvanizing wears off,
particularly if they are cleaned too much, can get
rusty once they are wet. This can result in rust stains
in the fur or leather which will lead to dressing
problems where the rust was formed, and a loss in
value. This can be a significant problem on fur-out
articles due to the contact of the wet leather with the
metal if turned too quickly. Fur-out articles must be
glazed over before turning. The addition of baking
soda to the wire will help avoid bacteria and taint.
2. The stretcher in many instances is not uniform.
Various companies have made them out of different
materials and different shapes. This results in a
variety of widths, from narrow to very wide.
3. Weak, low-quality steel can result in pelts that have
"bowed" in or out as the pelt dries.
4. Size loss, e.g. a 30" Raccoon will shrink approx. 1" to
1½" without the use of clothes pins securing the pelt
to the frame. A wire stretchers' pressure is outwards,
therefore the pelt is forced to "shrink" up from
the bottom, unless clothes pins or some other
attachment is used to lessen this shrinkage. A size
loss on Raccoon can result in significant reduction in
pelt value.
5. If stretchers have not been correctly-shaped before
being used, fur density can be affected. A further
grade reduction may result, particularly if the
stretch is too wide and the fur density becomes
weak or thin.
6. Improperly-dried tails will sometimes rot because
they have not been spread, and although a minor
disadvantage, can be avoided with wood. Poor drying
conditions can enhance tail drying problems.
7. Holes cannot be closed with pins as easily. Holes left
unsewn or poorly-closed may affect the grade of
the pelt.
WOODEN FRAMES

Advantages:
1. If properly nailed or pinned in the "skirt" or bottom
of the pelt, excessive pelt shrinkage is eliminated.
2. Wood frames are much more uniform than wire,
provided proper width measurements are followed
for each variety of fur.
3. Holes can be pinned much more easily.
4. Tails can be spread open, nailed, pinned or screened
for proper drying.
5. A wood-stretched pelt looks better. The pelt looks
"fuller" without the "sharp edged" result when wire is
used. If the pelt is properly stretched, appearance
looks much better on wood. This will influence
the buyer and the fur technician. It is easier to
grade well-put-up fur and the uniformity makes
sizing easier.
6. Some moisture and oils will be absorbed into the
wood. It is not significant, but it does help.
7. Wood-stretched fur will generally retain more length
in all sizes. Wooden frames do not have the outward
pressure being exerted by the frame on the pelt,
which occurs with wire stretchers. Pelts can be
stretched longer and secured at the base of the pelt
with ease.

Disadvantages:

1. Wood boards do take up space, especially if large
quantities are involved.
2. Added costs are incurred. Proper staple guns and
staples are expensive and most dealers and trappers
are not set up for this.
3. Over a period of time, split or shattered boards will
result in board loss when too many nails or staples
take their toll.


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## hassell (Feb 9, 2010)

*I used wire once, all my boards were made from cedar, when I bought them they were 45 yrs. old and had them for another 20 before I sold them.*


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## coyotejon (Feb 4, 2010)

It really is a lot of personal preference. On the NAFA web site it goes through pro's and con's of both kind of like the thing you posted Mick. I have always heard from buyers they prefer wood on everything but rats. To dry the tail properly on wire you almost have to modify the stretcher by attaching a piece of wood at the base of the stretcher.


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