# fleshing and cleaning tips



## bnkr244

Well i have another coyote fur to take care of, ive done 2 myself and it was a pain. Can you guys.give me some tips on fleshing it, i stretched the last two on a board and salted then peeled the fat and flesh and repeated about 10 times. Came out ok but took forever and the face was hard to clean up and came out so stiff i hardly turned.it.inside out. I tanned them myself with some homemade remedy i found on google. Also can i just put it in the wash machine before fleshing itto clean.it. thanks


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## prairiewolf

A fleshing beam will make it a little easier. They have a radius to them , but be carefull it is also easier to cut the hide. You dont need any salt unless you are going to tan the pelt, and then I suggest rubbing salt all over it and rolling it up and laying on an angle so fluids will drain. Yes you can wash the hides in washing machine but a good tub works great, use baby shampoo and make sure you rinse it very good.


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## bnkr244

Ok thanks. I tanned the last 2 and they came out good just alittle stiff but thats ok for a wall hanging. Its just hard to get the flesh off without cutting the skin and it takes awhile.


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## El Gato Loco

Personally I think salt has no place on fur. Maybe on deer hides or something but not fur.

I agree... use a fleshing beam and a good fleshing knife. I can flesh an animal in about 15 minutes and I am not even that good at it.

As for the head area... it will take a lot of work if you don't want it to end up stiff.

Any wet washing you do... make sure its in cold water.


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## On a call

I have heard about cold pressure washing and some guys swear by it...but I have never tried it.

A good fleshing knife and a good board makes the job more easy. !


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## bnkr244

Alright thanks guys,, ill have to get a better fleshing knife and give it a shot.


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## prairiewolf

Chris, the salt is ONLY if you plan on tanning. I use to do taxidermy work and always salted green hides then rolled up hair out and layed on angle overnight to drain. Then unroll and put hide out to dry then ship to tannery. This was the way the tannery wanted everything.If you tan yourself then of course, right after fleshing it go into the brine.


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## Mick105

Necker #600 fleshing knife is a good one. It will run you around $60 but in my opinion its well worth it. It will cut down on fleshing time and pay for itself in no time. I traded some muskrat pelts for a brand new one and its the best trade I've made so far. A good beam is just as important too!


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## coyotejon

How often do you have to give that Necker a tune up Mick? You just use a steel to sharpen it up a little?


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## Mick105

I have only had mine 2 years and its still sharp. Being that I mostly trap mink, muskrat and fox, I rarely use mine. After seeing how easy it made fleshing a raccoon I started putting out more raccoon sets. Haven't caught that many since due to limited time available this past season. I have a friend who catches a few dozen every year and he bought his 3 years ago, I will ask him for ya and let you know what he said.


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## Ruger

I run my furs through the washing machine with COLD water and borax soap, they come out nice and clean. Great topic, anxious to see what other tips are posted.


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## Scotty D.

I suppose I'll need to learn how to do this cuz yote carcasses don't pay enough to cover the gas back & forth to the fur buyer...


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## Mick105

coyotejon said:


> How often do you have to give that Necker a tune up Mick? You just use a steel to sharpen it up a little?


I talked with my buddy and he says his is still sharp and he hasn't tuned it at all. He said if he were to sharpen it he would just use a stone and lightly touch it up.


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## coyotejon

Ok cool, thanks for asking him Mick. Guess it makes sense that it should hold an edge for a while because it doesn't really come in contact with the real knife dullers like fur and teeth! Hate when I hit the teeth, just did it today, nothing dulls my knife quicker.


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## Mick105

I can't say that I have ever hit a tooth while skinning but I would imagine they aren't knife friendly.


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## Up North Journal

Ruger said:


> I run my furs through the washing machine with COLD water and borax soap, they come out nice and clean. Great topic, anxious to see what other tips are posted.


Stupid question but I'm assuming that you're doing this before tanning and after scraping? Remember I'm a newbie.


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## Ruger

I usually put them in the washer right after I skin and flesh them. Sometimes I will even put them in before I flesh them. Just remember cold water is the key, otherwise the fur will slip.


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## youngdon

I'd like to see up close clear pictures of your fleshing beams and knives, perhaps even a video of you using them ?


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## prairiewolf

Here are some pics of beams and one kinda showing how to use. I plan on making one for next year and will use a 2x6 covered with a piece of pvc pipe (6") cut and shaped to follow the 2x6. I will post pics and how to do .

























bottom pic showing fleshing says salt, you dont use salt for pelts unless shipping to a tannery


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## prairiewolf

here are some links everyone needs that plans on selling pelts:
http://www.nafa.ca/trapper/Resources/NAFA_PeltHandlingManual_2009.pdf
http://malcolmhess.home.mindspring.com/NAFA.htm


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## prairiewolf

Here are a couple more links. These links will help on making your own stretchers plus let you know what the fur buyers looks for and wants. http://www.furharvesters.com/pdf/pelthandling.pdf
http://www.furharvesters.com/pelthandling.htm


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## coyotejon

Mick105 said:


> I can't say that I have ever hit a tooth while skinning but I would imagine they aren't knife friendly.


 What?! You kidding me? You must be one skilled skinning ninja! I hit teeth and the skull when I get down to the front of the snout sometimes, or when going to get the front jaw portion of fur off of muskrats. Guess when I get that far down on the pelt maybe I hurry so I can get on to the next one!


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## youngdon

Great links PW Thanks for posting them.


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## Mick105

Coyotejon, I'm not sure of what size knife you use when skinning but I pocket knife with a short thin blade. I could see a larger knife bumping into teeth. Who knows maybe I do bump the teeth and just don't notice it. I will have to pay better attention to that next time.


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## coyotejon

Mick105 said:


> Coyotejon, I'm not sure of what size knife you use when skinning but I pocket knife with a short thin blade. I could see a larger knife bumping into teeth. Who knows maybe I do bump the teeth and just don't notice it. I will have to pay better attention to that next time.


 The knife I use for raccoon really is a little big, and I am sure that's part of the problem. My rat knife is just a little one but the way I skin them I actually kind of run the knife down their top two teeth on purpose then slide my knife under the top jaw to loosen the top jaw and nose up. My raccoon knife is really nice. It's a "Sog", and the blade is covered in that black stuff(I'm not a very knowledgeable knife guy) so it's waterproof or something. Bottom line is that blood doesn't stick to it. It's awesome but like I said it is a little big for the job, and you're right Mick, that's probably why I hit the teeth!


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## Mick105

Those SOG knives look nice but I don't think I could pay that much then use it for skinning. In order to keep it sharp you may want to use your good one up to the teeth and then switch to a 2nd knife just for the tooth/jaw area. Just a thought.


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## big mac

So after skinning an fleshing can I wash the hide in the tub in cold water with borax


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## Ruger

Noyotes said:


> So after skinning an fleshing can I wash the hide in the tub in cold water with borax


It works for me. Make sure you rinse them well. I have tried both the tub or a machine. Machine is just a little more time friendly for me. After washing I like to let the fur dry before I put mine on a stretcher. I stretch my furs inside out for a day or two before I turn them fur side out. I let the fur air dry so the moisture is not trapped on the inside. Others don't stretch their furs inside out from the start. I have tried this and they have turned out fine. Borax does a good job of cleaning the fur and makes them soft and fluffy. Hopefully this makes sense.


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## clayhen

Yalls comments helped me out to. Thanks


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## DesertGhost

Just remember, if you are selling the furs, dont use salt to remove the moisture from the pelts. Borax! its a preservative as well as a cleaner, it will pull all the moisture out of the pelt without trying to pull the moisture from the atmosphere. I use "dirty" borax (been used in the final dry washing stage a couple times) while fleshing, it helps grab the fat, oils, and flesh when you run your knife along. I use new borax in the final dry wash stage to ensure it is very clean. Good luck, sell high!


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## coyotejon

I have never seen anyone use borax on fur and have never used it. I am surprised to hear so much about it on here.


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## DesertGhost

Coyotejon, If you plan on selling any bobcats, using borax is the only way to go. Id recommend getting Mercer Lawing's Dvd "Top Dollar Cat$$$"


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## El Gato Loco

DesertGhost said:


> Coyotejon, If you plan on selling any bobcats, using borax is the only way to go. Id recommend getting Mercer Lawing's Dvd "Top Dollar Cat$$$"


For sure... cleans em up so good you don't even want to sell them when you're done!


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## Idahotrapper

Once I have skinned the coyote, I will wash them in the washing machine, with woolite, and then ring them out real good. Then I will flesh them on a my fleshing beam, fleshing them after you wash them helps to get some of the excess water out of them. Just remember that when you are fleshing them you are trying to roll or scrape any meat or fat off of the hide, not cut it off, and if you decide to wash them make sure that the tail is split all the way to the end, otherwise water will collect inside of it and it will rot, causing it to fall off. I have used borax on coyotes before, and I always use it on red fox and bobcats. When I use it I generally rub it into the flesh side of the pelt, after I flesh them and then put them on the stretcher fur side out, and leave them till they are dry. Everybody does it a little different, this is just the way I have found that works for me. One more thing is that if you decide to wash them in the washing machine, either do it when your wife isn't home or downtown at the laundry mat, otherwise you might be sleeping in your fur shed


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## Spearodafish

Idahotrapper said:


> Once I have skinned the coyote, I will wash them in the washing machine, with woolite, and then ring them out real good. Then I will flesh them on a my fleshing beam, fleshing them after you wash them helps to get some of the excess water out of them. Just remember that when you are fleshing them you are trying to roll or scrape any meat or fat off of the hide, not cut it off, and if you decide to wash them make sure that the tail is split all the way to the end, otherwise water will collect inside of it and it will rot, causing it to fall off. I have used borax on coyotes before, and I always use it on red fox and bobcats. When I use it I generally rub it into the flesh side of the pelt, after I flesh them and then put them on the stretcher fur side out, and leave them till they are dry. Everybody does it a little different, this is just the way I have found that works for me. One more thing is that if you decide to wash them in the washing machine, either do it when your wife isn't home or downtown at the laundry mat, otherwise you might be sleeping in your fur shed


Nice tip, especially the wife part..


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