# ??? thought about powder coating traps ???



## On a call (Mar 3, 2010)

I have used about every known method of trap protection. I allways went back to wax on my canine traps.

Formula 1 works well as a coating.But If you have any rust on your traps before you use It your traps will continue to rust under the coating.Does this happen with other coatings? I don't know since you can't see what's happening under the other coatings,but you can see It under F1. Does It matter I don't know.
All coatings wear off In a very short time.Repeated catches and your coating Is gone. So this Is how I rate the coatings that are on the market.

F1=
a little to costly for my use.
Easy to apply, dries quickly, holds up as well as any coating. Drying time related to tempature not critical. 
I feel It can probably be used safely for any application.Land traps or water traps.

Gas dips= 
To costly,poor drying time.Can't re dip during the season, drying time related to tempature very critical. 
Holds up as well as any coating.
I would never use It for canine sets,but It would probably be safe for any other application.

Wax=
Fairly cheap.Easy to apply,dries fast.Drying time Is not critical to tempature, so you can re wax during the season. 
Holds up as well as any coating.

Dye=
It's cheap and Is easy to apply.
In my opinion has no value as a protective coating. Dyed traps will rust just hanging on the walls. Dye has a very strong odor.Do I want to add that to my wax bucket?
In most cases dye Is the inatial coating and then wax Is placed over It.It makes your traps look good but has no value as a protective coating on It's own.

Paint=
We have two types of paint ones that you cut or thin with water and those we thin or cut with mineral spirts. I guess we can call these types lead based type paints.

Lead based type paint.

Needs to be cut with mineral spirts or something of that nature. Mid range In cost.Easy to apply, and drying time Is not critical to tempature.
Can be cut and your traps can be dipped or you can buy spray type cans, the spray system can get a bit costly If you have many traps and you have so much wast with over spray,and It can be very time consuming. With any type paint you will have to stir and mix If you use the dipping method since paint and your thinner like to separate.
Covers well and holds up as well as any coating.
In my opinion the jury Is still out on odor retention on traps used for canine trapping. I would assume that a period of airing out would be In order.

Latex or water based type paint=

Cheap easy to apply drying time not critical to tempature. Cut or thin with water.
It holds up as well as any coating.
I don't belive It has the strong odor of lead based paints so I don't think It will need as much airing out time. I have used latex type paints for my canine traps and saw no refusals or dug out traps. But I'm not ready to commit all my traps to this coating system. On water traps and body grip type traps there Is no need to air out your traps. And that applies to any coating you use.

Powder coating=
Coating Is applied In a dust like substace and adhears through a negitive and positive electrical prossces. And is then baked on at tempaturs of around 400 deggres.
Very costly.
I have about 8 doz 160s done this way.Nothing will ever have to be done to these traps ever again. But If you do this make sure your traps are In the sprung postion before powder coating.You can get some spring strength lose if they are left In the set postion.I know.
Coil spring traps show no lose of spring strength after powder coating.
Coyotes can and will leave scrathes In the coating but It's not a big deal. I just wax over the powder coating each year on my foot hold traps.

The bottom line Is try out differnt coatings and see what works for you In your situation.

I picked up this info to pass along. I am going to try powder coating and wanted to know your thoughts too. I bought a michine for $ 69.00 and the coating for a bottle was 10.00 from harbor freight. Not sure how I am going to make up an oven set up ?? Any thoughts ??


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## catcapper (Feb 11, 2010)

Make a homemade meat/fish smoker with a propane burner in the bottom for your oven. I use Logwood cyrstals and Oak Brush bark and cambium (an acid) for dying and then wax. I have traps that have been hanging in the barn for 30 yrs and no rust. It's not very humid up here at 9100' and rust has never been a problem. I would never paint any of my traps. Let us know how the powder coating go's.


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## wilded (Feb 10, 2010)

I have found that if I brush my traps well with a wire brush, rinse with water and dry before dipping in Formula 1 that it has worked very well for me. I am just a hobby trapper and do not put mine to the test some of you full time trappers put them through. With the humidity in Central Texas we live with a little rust.


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## On a call (Mar 3, 2010)

You dry weather guys have not lived till you contend with rain, muck, slop, and humidity of 80 %. I have found steel rusting away put up in a dry barn. I dislike rust, dirty and eats my steel. So...looking for a better way







.


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## tjc1230 (Mar 3, 2010)

I have tried just about everything. It boils down to this for me. land traps ,dye and wax. Water traps speed dip. i never use wax on coni type traps.


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