# Jeep??



## Larry

I am having a 1993 Jeep Wrangler given to me. Does anyone on here know anything about the new Jeeps.

I for one am an old Willys CJ2A owner, 1946. I know nothing of these newer ones.

The 1993 is all original (yes it has a rusty gas tank and windshield) but no lift kit, big tires, no add on's etc. Just a plain Jane jeep with a soft top.

Ill just repair it and get it running...No biggies its a Jeep Right?? :nut: Or am I going to cry allot? :wacko:

Any advise would be appreciated.

Larry


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## kiyote

:runforhills: trade it for a ford! :mrgreen:


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## pokeyjeeper

Larry I had a 94 yj for 12 years it was a great rig the only bad thing on them is the rear axle stock they are fine but if you put a locker in them with the stock shafts they will break there also was a manual trans that had problems in the yj which was built from 1988-1994 it was called the picgot (sp)


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## knapper

Just Keep it stock and drive it.


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## Larry

All great info except for kiyote comment.

Kiyote here is some life time wisdom....

Do you Kiyote of sound mind and body know why I own many roll around tool boxes tool box and a garage full of tools? Because after a life time of hearing comments similar to yours, I have deduced that *ALL* brands and makes of cars, trucks, tractors, combines, guns, farm equipment, houses, sewer systems, electrical wiring systems, appliances, home plumbing, are just like the computers I use.

THEY ARE ALL GOOD AND THEY ARE ALL BAD! :roflmao:


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## kiyote

lol. doesn't sound like my advice was appreciated. :smiley-confused005: :biggrin:

iz all good, if you don't want to take it.most elect not to. :mrgreen:

sound mind????? sound body???????????????

because I've lived, I posses neither.


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## catcapper

Jeep has a fair rep for be'in a pretty good outfit. Miss K has a stock 93 grand C (pic.) that I use for trap'in & hunt'in now and then. Keep some good tires on it and it will push through some snow and mud. Heck--- I had a few fellas help me shove a full grown cow elk in the back of her jeep one season and it made it down from the trail head and back to the house--- she wasn't real impressed with have'in some blood on the carpet.lol. (she got over it cause I bought her a newer Ford).


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## Larry

kiyote said:


> lol. doesn't sound like my advice was appreciated. :smiley-confused005: :biggrin:
> 
> iz all good, if you don't want to take it.most elect not to. :mrgreen:
> 
> sound mind????? sound body???????????????
> 
> because I've lived, I posses neither.


You always appreciated on here. At least by me and a few other not headed old men! I was just pointing out I have heard buy this and buy that for so many years...well that's why I have all of these tools and no garage space! hahaha

As for Fords I like the looks of them. But to be honest I have generally owned Chevy's, don't know why except I can fix them. I have also owned 1973 International Camper Special. I also owned a 1947 Jeep CJ I wish I still had.

Don't ever e afraid to speak out...I appreciate it!


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## Larry

Cat...thanks for the info. and I now know you spoil Mrs. K as much as I spoil Mrs. S.

Thanks twice...as you sparked a thought when you talked carpet and blood.

I spilled a pint of yote urine on the carpet of the Suburban this winter when teaching my grandson to trap. With all this warm weather coming I should get the pressure washer out and clean it. The smell left a month ago! But woooooooo..eee that yote potty stain is a doozy. :roflmao:


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## Paul-e

Any pics of the 46 Willys Larry? After spending a few years driving one while I was pretending to be a mechanic in the Army, I always thought I'd love to own one on the civilian side of the fence. Until I saw the price tag they have on 'em!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## youngdon

Keep the Jeep. I'd love to have another one as long as I can keep my pick-up also. 
You can buy just about any replacement part for jeeps. Most of them tougher than the original.


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## prairiewolf

Larry, dont get rid of the rusted gas tank. All you have to do is take it off and buy a bottle or 2 of the toilet bowl cleaning stuff and put a handful of gravel in the tank and shake. It will come out looking like a brand new tank !! I restored my 1964 Willys and one tank was so bad gas wouldnt come out of it, it looked so good I took the other tank out and cleaned it also and yes it was modified with a second tank on the passenger side and look like it was done at the factory, I had a post on here somewhere on the project.


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## Larry

Paul-e said:


> Any pics of the 46 Willys Larry? After spending a few years driving one while I was pretending to be a mechanic in the Army, I always thought I'd love to own one on the civilian side of the fence. Until I saw the price tag they have on 'em!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


I have one somewhere but maybe I don't. My son used my backup HD and many photos were erased.

I got lucky on mine it was on Ebay. Paid $3,000 for it. It ran great, I had the original generator converter ed to an alternator. Seemed to help with the point life.

I made a mistake and sold it to a man in Ontario. I have to admit it is the ultimate UTV. Plus they are smaller and more street legal. You say they cost allot? One 100% restored is about the same price as a UTV but 100 times tuffer.

Lock them into 4 WD -Low pull out the throttle and let it run over stuff and plow through snow. No need for lockers as they are built in and as a true 4WD each tire is pulling for you. Plus if you needed to change oil mine had a 12,000 pound shaft driven warn winch. Just find a branch and hang it up. haha


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## Larry

prairiewolf said:


> Larry, dont get rid of the rusted gas tank. All you have to do is take it off and buy a bottle or 2 of the toilet bowl cleaning stuff and put a handful of gravel in the tank and shake. It will come out looking like a brand new tank !! I restored my 1964 Willys and one tank was so bad gas wouldnt come out of it, it looked so good I took the other tank out and cleaned it also and yes it was modified with a second tank on the passenger side and look like it was done at the factory, I had a post on here somewhere on the project.


Thanks......this tank is rusted through. I can get a new one for 138.00 so thats the easiest way to go. I have played have fought rusted through tanks in my youth. Back then they sold gas tank repair tape if you recall. It worked for awhile until the rust started up again and then it fell off. We tried to repair a few by filling with water and soap and welding them. But that's still a dangerous plan IMO especially when you could buy one at a junk yard and clean it up inside like to said or run a mix of oil/gas for awhile like a two stroke to stabilize the rust.

Thanks again ED. You know this might be a new thread...for the folks to watch and offer advise. I have had some good stuff so far. Except the buy a Ford advice.....hahahahh


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## azpredatorhunter

My 93 Grand Cherokee Limited takes me where no man's gone before... My only complaint is the death wobble, it comes and goes. If you lift it Larry that's when you start having problems. 
Note the cage traps on the roof.


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## sneakygroundbuzzard

azpredatorhunter said:


> My 93 Grand Cherokee Limited takes me where no man's gone before... My only complaint is the death wobble, it comes and goes. If you lift it Larry that's when you start having problems.
> Note the cage traps on the roof.


check front and rear control arm bushings,and a ball joints


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## azpredatorhunter

catcapper, have you ever had any death wobble issues?


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## azpredatorhunter

Tim, I could probably use new ball joints, the wheel doesn't have any play.I have gotten the death wobble from a variety of sources... One time the steering box was causing it, I replace it and it stopped for awhile. Another time it was the traction bar, then in was the shocks, tires etc. I've heard that on the Jeep CJ the bolt that attaches the traction bar to the axle is the wrong size from the factory, it causes the hole to elongate, and causes the death wobble.


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## knapper

If you get a death wobble in one with springs then check you r suspension and steering box, if it with coil springs check your bushings. I first drove to Alaska in a 48 cj3a that had a sbc and overdrive in it. That was in 1976. I miss that jeep the most of all. I also had a 1976 full sized jeep that would go any where in stock configuration.


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## azpredatorhunter

Larry said:


> All great info except for kiyote comment.
> 
> Kiyote here is some life time wisdom....
> 
> Do you Kiyote of sound mind and body know why I own many roll around tool boxes tool box and a garage full of tools? Because after a life time of hearing comments similar to yours, I have deduced that *ALL* brands and makes of cars, trucks, tractors, combines, guns, farm equipment, houses, sewer systems, electrical wiring systems, appliances, home plumbing, are just like the computers I use.
> 
> THEY ARE ALL GOOD AND THEY ARE ALL BAD! :roflmao:


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## Larry

azpredatorhunter said:


> My 93 Grand Cherokee Limited takes me where no man's gone before... My only complaint is the death wobble, it comes and goes. If you lift it Larry that's when you start having problems.


After you are sure the ball joints and tie rod ends are good and you still get the death wobble here the fix. he issue is usually is the wrong caster setting and it occurs allot with bigger or wider tires and also lifts as lifting tends to unload the front tires.

Allot of guys get set the toe and camber. They forget to adjust the caster. The issue is if lets say the passenger tire is set back and the drivers side tire is set too far forward their is unevenness causes friction. Once the friction starts the only cure is to stop the oscillation by slowing the tire down.

Generally if you increase the caster in a positive direction the death wobble will stop. As it will load the tire and the ball joints.

On my Suburban I added ford keys for the increased torsion bar tension. Since I could not get enough positive caster I replaced the upper control arm/ball joint and set the caster per the instructions. I believe I am now at +4.5 positive caster and I have no wheel wear nor do I have the death wobble. So just buy piutting in new ford keys I obtained a level ride and new designed upper control (A Arms) I have a near smooth riding and driving suburban. With plenty of clearance to get over those nasty sand hiills with getting stuck high center. I bought the ford keys and upper control arms used on ebay for $150.00

Now the Jeep I am getting has leaf springs on the front. Unlike the Cherokees with A-Arms and coil springs. This will allow me to lift it very high if I want with little or no worry about steering. However, Ill wipe out universal joints pretty fast. So Ill be modest with the lift and probably just go with a body lift and 31 inch tires. That will get me around almost anywhere with such a short wheel base. As my Mrs. S. reminded me...I am no longer 25 I don't need to act like it.


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## sneakygroundbuzzard

I believe I am now at +4.5 positive caster and I have no wheel wear nor do I have the death wobble.

the reason you dont have tire wear is because caster isnt a tire wearing angle.camber and toe are tire wearing angles.

camber is used to make the steering wheel return easier or harder to center on its own after taking a corner.also to make it easier to turn the steering wheels for cornering at lower speeds

old vehicles that had manual steering had very very positive camber angles to make the steering wheel easier to return to center and to turn the vehicle around corners easier.

but yes,if the difference from side to side is great with the caster angles it can cause a intermittent wobble in the front end of a vehicle


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## Larry

sneakygroundbuzzard said:


> I believe I am now at +4.5 positive caster and I have no wheel wear nor do I have the death wobble.
> 
> the reason you dont have tire wear is because caster isnt a tire wearing angle.camber and toe are tire wearing angles.


Mmmmmm okay. Yes I agree as long a a vehicle is traveling in a straight line (static position) caster will not effect tire wear. But the minute you turn the camber is changed due to the angle of the caster and the tires will wear. Its called camber roll and occurs when the caster is set to far negative. Oversize tires and big truck tires see this allot if the axle caster is set to far negative.

I added new A frames to correct this on my suburban. Remember as you increase the height of the vehicle the hypotenuse change in length from the center line. Such that mechanical adjustment cannot be made. Thus on the A-Frame the ball joint is moved so the hypotenuse length falls within its parameters.

Caster also effects tire wear in this way. If the caster on one side is as little as 0.5 negative from the other side you will notice a pull. Some alignment guys think its toe that is causing this because caster hardly ever goes out if you hit something hard. Fact is sometime when you set the toe right the caster becomes apparent because at the factory it was break time. But you'll notice the pulling hopefully before severe tire were begins.

Now the easiest way to see caster and the death wobble is compare a slow moving bicycle to a motorcycle. Motor cycles can go fast without the worry of shimmy usually because their front wheel is set 3-4 degrees in front more then a bicycle plus its heavier. But get a common bicycle going around 45mph and you will normally get a death wobble because the caster angle per weight cannot be set.


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## catcapper

A death wobble at 60 mph can be real exciting AZ--- it can make a fella think the end has come.lol.

My FIL has two 90's jeeps--- a sport and a grand. Like Miss K's jeep, they see a lot of off road drive'in. All three have experienced the DW over 200,000 miles on the rigs. Most of the same makes tend to have the same problems show up after a while. On all three jeeps, the cure for the DW was to install a "good" steering stabilizer. I think the light factory stabilizers cant take the beat'in of run'in off road. Or---------------------> you could just buy a Ford.

awprint:


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## pokeyjeeper

Larry if you use a 2.5'' spring lift a 1" body lift use one from day star comes with everything you'll need put extended spring shackles on it you can fit 33" tires under her with no problem if you want to trim a little body tin and put stock fender flairs off a tj wrangler (96-2006) you can fit 35" rubber under her this is how my 94 yj was set up and I wheeled her hard off road put her through stuff that guys with lockers wouldn't try man I miss her


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## sneakygroundbuzzard

Larry said:


> Mmmmmm okay. Yes I agree as long a a vehicle is traveling in a straight line (static position) caster will not effect tire wear. But the minute you turn the camber is changed due to the angle of the caster and the tires will wear. Its called camber roll and occurs when the caster is set to far negative. Oversize tires and big truck tires see this allot if the axle caster is set to far negative.
> 
> I added new A frames to correct this on my suburban. Remember as you increase the height of the vehicle the hypotenuse change in length from the center line. Such that mechanical adjustment cannot be made. Thus on the A-Frame the ball joint is moved so the hypotenuse length falls within its parameters.
> 
> Caster also effects tire wear in this way. If the caster on one side is as little as 0.5 negative from the other side you will notice a pull. Some alignment guys think its toe that is causing this because caster hardly ever goes out if you hit something hard. Fact is sometime when you set the toe right the caster becomes apparent because at the factory it was break time. But you'll notice the pulling hopefully before severe tire were begins.
> 
> Now the easiest way to see caster and the death wobble is compare a slow moving bicycle to a motorcycle. Motor cycles can go fast without the worry of shimmy usually because their front wheel is set 3-4 degrees in front more then a bicycle plus its heavier. But get a common bicycle going around 45mph and you will normally get a death wobble because the caster angle per weight cannot be set.


well im not going to argue this with you

but after 25 years of a being an auto tech,and having done literally thousands of alignments.having 3 master certifications( ase master,plus 2 ford master certs)

caster does not and will not cause tire wear.


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## Larry

Sneaky...arguing is good IMO as long as it stays civil. Its how we learn from each other.

Indeed, I agree caster does not directly cause tire wear as long as the car is going straight down the road. But offset caster from side to side will cause the tires to wear, its called camber roll. To most it seems like normal tire wear if they rotate as they should. But if they don't rotate it will be apparent.


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## Larry

pokeyjeeper said:


> Larry if you use a 2.5'' spring lift a 1" body lift use one from day star comes with everything you'll need put extended spring shackles on it you can fit 33" tires under her with no problem if you want to trim a little body tin and put stock fender flairs off a tj wrangler (96-2006) you can fit 35" rubber under her this is how my 94 yj was set up and I wheeled her hard off road put her through stuff that guys with lockers wouldn't try man I miss her


I cant afford 35 inch tires unless I move to Alberta and steal some of C2C's high dollar coyotes!

Thats great info though. Any experience with just putting 31's on it. How much clearance will I get then? Just curious as where I go we have lots of hills but no big rocks.


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## Larry

catcapper said:


> A death wobble at 60 mph can be real exciting AZ--- it can make a fella think the end has come.lol.
> 
> My FIL has two 90's jeeps--- a sport and a grand. Like Miss K's jeep, they see a lot of off road drive'in. All three have experienced the DW over 200,000 miles on the rigs. Most of the same makes tend to have the same problems show up after a while. On all three jeeps, the cure for the DW was to install a "good" steering stabilizer. I think the light factory stabilizers cant take the beat'in of run'in off road. Or---------------------> you could just buy a Ford.


Or you could buy a Suburban.....turn on the seat heaters, crank up the air, adjust the 6 way seats, grab a beverage from the center council, listen to 8 Bose speakers perfectly reproducing the sounds of Johnny Cash or Nat King Cole....and drive 80 MPH with over 230,000 on her AND.... NOT WORRY about a thing.

When it comes to off road, lock her in to 4 wheel low and cruise over the nastiest mole hills, pull the biggest logs out of the way and after your butt is wet from sliding down the hill to pull that 38lb yote back up, Turn on those seat heaters and preserve those hemorroides for your 90's. Oh yeah and listen as Mr. Cole sings....Its a WONDERFUL WORLD!!!! OH YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


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## azpredatorhunter

Thanx for all the information guys... Every time I have a tire alignment done, they say the caster isn't adjustable. At least they can't do it.


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## azpredatorhunter

[quote name="catcapper" post="272737" timestamp="1494895387"]
A death wobble at 60 mph can be real exciting AZ--- it can make a fella think the end has come.lol.

There are two different types of death wobble...

One type is when you get a wobble at around 55 MPH after hitting a pothole, etc. etc. it's starts to wobble but you can control it by slowing down.

The second type can happen anywhere between 30 to 60 MPH sometimes for unknown reasons, it usually is caused by a small dip in the pavement, potholes, large cracks, railroad tracks, etc. This type of death wobble causes the entire front end of the Jeep to violently shake...the steering wheel starts to shake uncontrollably. Slowing down doesn't stop the wobble every time, more often you need to come to a complete stop.

catcapper, I could do without that type of excitement. And yes it will definitely bring you closer to God


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## pokeyjeeper

A 2.5" spring lift will clear 31" rubber if you put a spring lift on her after you get the u-bolts tite cut the extra off flush with the nut if you don't the first tree stump you go over it will find the end and dig in deeper the a tick on a hound going over hills the t-case skid plate will take the top off the sharp pointy hills there are after market ones that tuck up in the frame rails but then you have to change your drive shafts to the cv style and put a slip yoke eliminatetor on the rear drive shaft all costing more money
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket


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## Larry

AZ....they wont do it because it takes time. Second I know some newer compact vehicles it cannot be done. What is the make and model.

Pokey...you'll get a call when I want to lift it. First priority is to clean up the frame rust, then inspect the he frame and see if the shackle hangers are not to rusty and are safe. Also Ill need a new fuel tank the one it leaks. Ill Probably go with plastic 14 gallon one and new hangers as its seems steel tanks rust out pretty fast on 1988-1994 Wranglers. My grandson is going to learn allot with this vehicle and its a good one to learn on !

While he bust his knucles, cuts his hands and learnes to swear like a man, Ill be sawing wood to the trapping Vardo.


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## pokeyjeeper

Good deal Larry my 94 wrangler had a plastic tank in it when you pull the tank check the rubber lines that go from the tank to the steel line on the frame you don't want to pop one of those out in the bush and you can call any time


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## Larry

Hello PT. I drove to Lake Geneva Wisconsin....400 miles round trip, loaded the Jeep on a U-haul car hauler and towed it home. There was quite a bit of apprehension as the old Suburban had just turned 220,000 original miles on the engine and drive train. Lots of hills to boot. But we slowed down going up the hills to keep the engine < 3,000 RPM in second and thrid gears and had not one issue.

Was an easy load on off load for the Jeep as those U-Hauls are low to the ground and the ramps are long. Really a nicely set up trailer and for $66.00 for 24 hours rental was reasonable. These trailers have well engineered hydraulic surge brakes and they work very well...at least the one I rented did. Plus they have front tire ratcheted webbed hold downs along with chassis chains.

For the load it was pouring cats and dogs with temps in the middle 50's. Fortunately my cousin had a small hill in the street. I parked the trailer just far enough away we could get a little speed if we got the jeep to the street. Right after we pushed the jeep backwards out of the driveway, I jumped in and with allot of muscle for engine off power steering we let it roll. I managed to guide a jeep straight up the ramps about 40 feet away. The speed was perfect and as I got to the middle of the trailer I released the clutch slowly and it rolled right into the trailer stops. Took a whole 5 minutes to load it. 5 more to anchor it down. Now I don't need to bath for another 6 months as we all were drenched!

When I got home. I tied my 10,000 LB tensile strength rope to Mrs. S's SUV then to the Jeep on the trailer. We lowered the ramps and with me in the Jeep and Mrs S driving the Suburban we pulled the trailer out from under it. Another 5 minute job. As I said that U-Haul call hauler really made things easy.

Here's the project Jeep as it sits waiting for the final push into the garage so I can drop the Gas tank and do some frame cleaning and start parts replacement.

Ill post more photos of the interior which is in fantastic shape and more of the outside. Note the severe rust on the windshield frame. Which fortunately I have already priced brand new at $139.00 minus glass. But no windshield until I can get a good look at the underside especially the frame and spring hanger area.


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## pokeyjeeper

Good looking rig those windshield frames all rust out no big deal what engine is in her the 4 cylinder or the 6 cylinder they make weld on repair kits to fix the frames also pretty slick and a good fix I've been told


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## glenway

That six of theirs is tough and smooth.

At least parts are out there. Just a matter of how well a man can toss cash. Good luck, Larry.


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## Larry

Pokey and Glen... it has a 4. Around 77,000 miles on it. It was bought brand new in Oct of 1992. It was my cousins first and last ever brand new vehicle after college. Cost on the window sticker then was an whopping $13,202.00. Needless to say its 100% original with all documentation available. So no fancy lift kits or aftermarket stuff. It will be just repaired and appreciated for what it is. Which right now is a vehicle with allot of rust.

BTW the interior is flawless. The only change like all kids in there 20's is the radio....which BTW is a Sony removable with a cassette player!

Pokey I found many sites that have what you had mentioned....frame parts.

Here's a couple more photos....I blackened out one because my neighbor a 25 year old female super model runs around naked allot and she was in the photo. Anyway this is a family site.


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## knapper

Looks like a good project.


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## Larry

knapper said:


> Looks like a good project.


Just many hours of dirty work at first getting through the rust to see what needs attention. We have a plan rural guys always have a plan.

Our plan is to lift up the front of back with the fork lift or the front end loader on the tractor. Start up the high pressure washer and blast away as much as we can. Its a 4200 PSI/ 4.0GPM and with the right nozzle it will blast paint off most parts. Push comes to shove we can buy a wet sand blaster tip for the washer and it will take all off.

The body and interior is in great shape. Wont take much work there there than straightening the tailgate and buying a replacement windshield frame/glass/gaskets.

We may not get to bare metal but they have stuff now called PO-15 that stops rust and provides an epoxy hard finish.

*First thing first.*

1) Drop the gas tank here at my house.

2) Install a tow bar to the front bumper I just ordered.

Note: Jeep CJ, YJ and newer models are one of the few vehicles designed to be flat towed and it tells you how to do it in the owners manual. That is why so many RVer's have Jeeps behind them.

They are easy to tow and if you tow vehicle doesn't have enough breaking power, they make a motor that pulls on the jeeps break pedal for to use the Jeeps break when towing.

AS for actual towing Jeep has the only manual I know of with instructions for a flat tow. (flat towing- is no use of dolly or wrecker.) The manual states in many words, make sure you have the transfer case in neutral. Place the transmission in gear and off you go. The reason for putting the transmission in gear is to lubricate the transfer case and transmission. I read just in case the transfer case jumps into gear, put the transmission in 4 or 5th gear to not ruin the engine.

So there's the plan......Ill post photos once the gas tank gets dropped.................


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## Larry

Started up and test drove the Jeep today. Leaks fuel, however I don't think its the tank, I am positive its the fuel lines from the Pump/Sending unit to the engine on top the tank.

My granddaughter the college sophomore has decided she wants it and has jumped in with both feet learning to turn wrenches. I mean its like have an over anxious 5 year old, she wants to do everything.

She has never driven a stick before. But like I told her within a week she'll be a pro, I like many grandpas am still smiling from ear to ear knowing I am passing along what I know. Tomorrow we will drop the fuel tank with my so we can get to those leaking rubber lines!

In this photo the Tops off and its drying out from a 200 mile drive in pouring rain from Lake Geneva Wisc to Iowa.









Here is my granddaughter, getting ready to swap out batteries. I just sit in the folding chair and watch...she's figuring it out pretty well. Notice the pro touch, holding the wrench and using both hands!


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## prairiewolf

Thats great Larry, I think all youngsters should be familiar with auto, and great to have Grandpa showing her.


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## 220swift

nice work keeping that folding chair in it's place, one of my favorite jobs....lol..........keep them grandkids curious and learning and they will grow into outstanding adults. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## pokeyjeeper

Very cool passing on your knowledge I know your gas leakage problem is those rubber lines make sure you get new line that is high pressure hose for fuel injection pressure keep up the good work


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## glenway

My friend, Joe, has this little 4-banger completely stock and it's served him well. Not sure of the year but it's been around for a decade or more. Took this pic at my place during an ice storm 4 years ago. Not the best highway vehicle, but a fine off-roader.

Used to go to Silver Lake sand dunes and the Jeeps pretty much ruled. Lots of noise from the big 3 vehicles and unless they were nitrous assisted, they never stacked up. Short wheel base is great in the trails and all around off-roading.

Had a Jeep years ago and it was great in the snow. I'll post a pic.

Hey! There it is, my 71 Jeepster powered by a Buick V-6. Took this pic in Michigan's U.P.

Good luck, Larry.


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## Larry

Thanks to all for the replies. Ill keep this thread alive.

Pokey.....good info on the fuel lines.

Glen....those are great pictures and words. I often wondered how the Jeepster' stacked up to the International Scout. Doesn't matter as they were both tough as nails and could pull anything better than these new trucks IMHO. May not be as comfortable as they were noisy inside but they were tough and fine machines.

Things were put on hold yesterday because of the theft. I sure am going to miss my battery powered impact wrenches today. Also I felt real bad yesterday as my granddaughter was all excited about working on her jeep and nothing got done. Hit me hard last night when she left with a disappointing walk as her head hung low around supper time.

Did have good news however. Well get that fuel tank dropped today. Then the tow bard that arrived by UPS will be installed so we can tow it around for odd repairs and work. First stop while the tank is off is we head to the farm about 5 miles away and spray the rust off the frame with the 5.000 PSI, 4 gallon per minute shop pressure washer. With the right nozzle that washer will blast most paint off of anything. Well lift the Jeep from the rear with the fork lift and that way their will be no crawling. Ill post pictures!

After the frame is cleaned we'll let it sit for a day to dry thoroughly. Lift it back up and inspect for weak spots in the frame. Those will be topped with 3/16 mild steel plate welded in place.

Then I plan to use POR-15 products to end the rust on the frame. Cost will be be over 100 bucks for the frame but that wills stop that mess. While I am add it Ill hit the axles, springs and hangers.

That it for now men and ladies. I wish you all a great Memorial Day weekend.

To the families that have fallen Vet, it could of just as easily been me and for that I am hear to assist you in anyway to the best of my abilities.


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## Larry

I dropped the fuel tank yesterday. Took about 2 hours with the rusty bolts and making a few runs to the farm and Menards.

Here are the photos

The day before all bolts were soaked with Pb Blaster. On this jeep the tank is held in place with the skid plate and not straps. The straps hold the poly tank to the skid plate to keep it from moving. Front bolts were ground off they were rusted to bad. I had my grandaughter soak a towel in water and I packed that around the tank were i knew the sparks would fly. Its always risky using a grinder around fule tanks but over the years I have found soaked material dripping wet works very well. I felt this was safe as skid plate sheilded the tank from the actual fuel tank and the water cooled everything from the towles,









Next step was to remove the filler line and vent line









Then it was time to drop the tank so I could get to the fuel pump hoses on top the tank and the fuel pump electrical connection. Heres the tank setting on the ground


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## knapper

I have an osolating sander/saw that would not leave sparks about. Very handy for close in work, the blades cutting edge is only 1.5 inches wide and it moves back and forth fast enough to saw through bolts pretty good. I hope you don't take off for spelling.


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## Larry

Knapper first off don't worry about spelling. If spelling was so important we would not have Vanity Plates on our vehicles IE: IMAHNTR

I have Rockwell Variable Speed oscillating tool. I bought a $20.00 carbide metal cutting blade at Menards. Would not cut the forward bolts. Can you tell me which blade your using. Thanks!


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## pokeyjeeper

Good deal big question is did you find the leak


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## Larry

Pokey...No I did not find the leak. Pretty sure it's one of the lines. I can say this with confidence as the tank had 14 gallons of gas in it! :smile: Now that gas was strained with two dish towels packed in a funnel and is being burned with new gas in the Suburban and my lawnmower along with allot of Stable fuel treatment.

The Jeep is getting "all" new aft section rubber fuel lines according to the diagram in Jeep Chryselr. They are all being replaced including the gasket for the fuel/pump/sending unit. 24 year rubber fuel items get hard and brittle as you know. Whats the point of having to chase leaks all the time. The hose clamps were shot and I had to snip one off.

Placed an order today for at 4WD parts for every new hose I could get. Ill get high pressure 5/16 fuel hose at a local NAPA dealer, it will also get a new fuel cap.

When I have the sending unit out. Ill fill the entire tank full of soapy water. It will get a good cleaning. Ill do it on a sunny day on a dry driveway and inspect the entire tank. I am positive the tank is fine, but I want to make sure. Besides a good cleaning wont hurt it. The sending unit hole is a rectangular 6 x 7 inch opening. My plan for drying is hot sun on a black plastic tank and a venture effect using my leaf blower shooting air over the hole. A tad bit of water wont hurt anyway but Ill dry it so its just a tad,

Oh and I ordered an $80.00 kit of POR-15 stop rust fluids. That way after I hoist it up with the tractor bucket or fork lift and blast the frame with 5,000 psi/ 3.4 gpm water I can degrease it, prep it and rust coat it while its hanging. Ill post pictures then.

Yill then Ill take a break and pay tribute to my fellow vets that never came home.


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## knapper

I got Bosh I think bimetalic blades. I got the tool to use on my snowmobile carbide ski bolts, couldn't get to them any other way.


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## Larry

Knapper thanks Ill try Bosch . Say is their a certain speed you use to cut with? I once read start with a slow speed and move to high after the cut is made. But I had no luck with either. Like I said I think its the blade.

Okay since this is a PT site I will day this. I have a knife blade for mine and I think it would do a great job for fleshing of pelts. Ill try it this fall. Would of tried it before but I forgot all about having that blade. Its the same one they use for removing glue from floors.


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## pokeyjeeper

I'll bet it would work


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## Larry

Pokey...Thanks for the vote of confidence. It's guys like you and others here on PT that makes a difference in how we do things in life.


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## Larry

Jeep Update.......XXX Rated pictures not for the faint of heart. Lots of RUST!

A week ago the gas tank was totally disabled and cleaned. Skid plate was washed at 2700 PSI to get the rust to a manageable level before the angle grinder wire brush was used. I filled the tank with water and soap and let her set in the 95 degree sun waiting for leaks to show on the dry concrete! There were none. It was tipped over rinsed good and allowed to dry for two days in the hot sun.

















Fuel pump and sending unit plus tank straps









LOst of frame rust to work on. Fortunatley I have a grandaughter that is not afraid of hard work and dirt.

Frame prior to high pressure blasting









Frame post blasting


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## Larry

Little issue with editing so Ill post it here:

Men you can believe some stuff on the internet. Those windshield hinge 45 and 40 torx bolts need heated and lots of it! Chrysler loves there tread locker and those bolts are living proof. So if you work and a jeep and there are large torx head bolts, apply at least a minute of heat to each one before turning. If you do most will spin right out with little effort. IF you don't...they will not move with a Good Torx socket and it takes a 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 drill to cut the heads off the bolts and 20 milutes of drilling.

The bottom line....after 120 Granddaughter and Pappa/Grandma hours. I think one ISU Sophmore is going to have a Jeep she can be very proud of. I know I am very proud of her for all the days she worked so hard in 95 degree heat and 85% humidity doing darn right dirty work RUST Removal and Repair!

Glen you would be proud.....I have not had one bad word spoken yet!

More to come men.......


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## glenway

Looks like that part of Wisconsin dishes out a fair amount of salt. My buddy's Jeep is a '97 with 150,000 miles and even in Michigan, where salt mines run under Detroit, it ain't nothin' like your jewell. It has the 4 cylinder and still runs like new.

I hate rust and cowbirds.


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## Larry

glenway said:


> Looks like that part of Wisconsin dishes out a fair amount of salt. My buddy's Jeep is a '97 with 150,000 miles and even in Michigan, where salt mines run under Detroit, it ain't nothin' like your jewell. It has the 4 cylinder and still runs like new.
> 
> I hate rust and cowbirds.


Glen........I laughed so hard "I hate rust and cowbirds" I now how coffee on my T shirt! Thank you! Have a great weekend my friend!

BTW the Jeep spent most of its life near Chicago! They moved to Wisc. about three years ago. (still laughing)


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## pokeyjeeper

Looking good bud


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## knapper

While you have it out think about a new fuel pump so you don't have to pull it again.


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## Larry

knapper...thanks for the thoughts.

But I am a tad ahead of you. I am cutting a 6.5" by 7.5" access hole in the storage area before the tank goes in. Was laying it out today. But holy cow by the time I started the first measurement..I was sweating so much from 88% humidity I jumped on the mower and mowed the lawn.

(yes Don I listened to you and others, not overworking my overhauled heart yet!)

Ill post my measurements for the hole and location before and after I cut it. The lid will be some 3/16 sheet metal a tad larger then the hole. It will be held down with sheet metal screws and clips. Ill make a seal using silicone caulk, sealed with cellophane. Ill screw down down the lid over the cellophane. After the silicone dries Ill have an perfect silicone gasket!

Again that is a super great idea Knapper...and thanks for the thought!

Larry


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## Larry

I am a little slow on post sorry. With the new overhauled heart I have so much energy I can't sit still for posting on PT. LUCKY YOU as I know I got a tad carried away in the past.

Anyway as promised here is the new fuel pump and sending unit access hole. I cut the hole with the tank out, SAFETY FIRST! Lucky for me my skills with a ruler were true to form. Measure 5-6 times on a cut like this. Square the hole 3 times then cut! Hahahaha

















This is from the ground looking up!









What it looked like after the fuel tank was installed with the fuel pump and sending unit. As my grandaughter shouted as I tightened the last hanger bolt "its a perfect fit Pappa...."I want to be like you someday" Yes men I took a deep breath while laying on my high school shop class made car creeper and sucked in the tears!


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## Larry

Weeks of Hardwork and a Plan comes Together!!

After some 70 hours of work and we are about 3 repairs from a Jeep that is reliable. The VSS for the speedometer needs replaced, it needs new shocks as the original ones disintegrated with the pressure sprayer and yes a new tailgate!

But this is one moment I will never forget. My granddaughter on her own and bought a battery, installed it and clamped it down. She poured 4 gallons of fresh gasoline into the very empty but super clean gas tank.

Then the moment of truth....after two cranks to clear the air from the fuel line and varooom...her jeep she worked so hard on came back to life. She was i tears and could not believe her hard work has re-created a drive-able vehicle.

He she is the minute it started, video a selfie so she had engine noise!


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## glenway

That young lady will never forget her first vehicle, that's for sure.


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## Larry

Just wish my spelling wasn't so poor!


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## glenway

Maybe she can help you with that. After all, you taught her everything you knew about rust.


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## Larry

glenway said:


> Maybe she can help you with that. After all, you taught her everything you knew about rust.


Yep Ill let here spray some PB blaster in both ears! Or maybe spider spray to get rid of the cobwebs!


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## Larry

Lets see where did I leave off on the Jeep??

I think I was de rusting the frame with POR 15 rust stopper. I purchased a Low Volume Low Pressure gravity feed sprayer. After some playing with water I could drop the pressure to 15 PSI and use just 3cfm. Pretty amazing little gun. So I out the extra heavy filter mask on, goggles and gloves and laid under the jeep while it was on ramps. First the front was sprayed....then the ramps went under the rear wheels and I sprayed the back.

Here is the frame mount before....








Frame after.....not perfect but the rust for the most part is stopped! 















Then it was time for a new tailgate.
here's theold one.

Then the new...
See thumbs at bottom of page also

Frame is done and the Jeep Tub is almost complete except hardware for the sof-top needs added to the new windshield frame. So I offer the job to my number one Jeep Restoration person...my Granddaughter. I grab a chair, my coffee, turn on Pandora and watch....this young gal is fast and before you know it we can put the top back on!
Here she is doing her thing...








Next its shocks.....while we are at it might as well add some paint and make faux Porsche brake calipers....the blue orange and black all fit together nicely and had a woman blessing for color coordination! 
But first the bad shocks....notice how the pressure washer destroyed the rust and the shocks! I like it!
[attachment=26137:IMG_2271.JP

We are almost done....just in time to boot.....college starts Aug 14


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## pokeyjeeper

Looking good bud look like someone back into something from the looks of that tailgate lol been there done that with mine rolled back into a small tree just a little bump and wow looked like a taco


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## Larry

Pokey, Its actually was crunched twice from what I hear. Something about a garage and like you it was backed into a tree, but under power!

We have three more things to finish....one is the front axle u-joint passenger side needs replaced. Whilst we have the hub off its getting replaceds also. That will be a full day job I am afraid (or more) because of the rust. Been soaking them every chance I get with PB Blaster so well see maybe they will fall off once the bolts are loose...yeah I am dreaming!

Second, I started and it and its given me fits. The darn tapered pin holding the snubber (stearing stabilizer) on the drag link, It just won't pop. I have had king pins on binders and 50'ish straight axle trucks that werent this stuck! Ugh. So I am trying my last secret. I soaked a rag in PB Blaster and I cable tied it to the pin/drag link area. It looks stupid (like the jeep is wearing an arm cast under there) and I heard about it from my granddaughter, but after a week of soaking things this way I seldom have an issue. At least I didn't tie an old pair of my skives to it :nut: . just am old soaked hand towel.

Last thing is the lid for the fuel tank access. I am saving it for last because I have been looking for a FUEL decal. You know like they have on Jets and Planes. I may have to find a stencil and paint me one up.

I have to admit...its been one memorable time working with my now master Jeep Mechanic Granddaughter. Perhaps if I am not to worn out well do a truck or something cool for my Grandson who turns 16 in Oct.

Larry


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## 220swift

nice work Larry !!!


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## Larry

thanks 220, ... for what its worth here is that LVLP Paint sprayer I purchased. I cannot say enough how well it works. I use my little California Ultra Quiet Air Compressor @ 3.5cfm /15PSI and it shoots paint better than an air can with very little over spray. I belive this sprayer will work well on laytex and oil based house paints also. Ill let you know as when the trapping is over its into our Kitchen for Kitchen Cabinet overhaul.


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## glenway

Hopefully, you have a variety of sprayer tips for the different materials you'll use. The one I'm using works best set at about 23 psi at the gun.

Your favorite mechanic will long remember this experience well beyond the point of rust remission. Could use a good helper around my place for a spell.


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## Larry

Another long day on the rusty frame. This time it was getting a tapered bolt that holds on the steering stabilizer on the drag link. After lots of heat, wrapping it with a rag soaked in PB Blaster it just wasn't moving! Today I took the chance and grabbed the drill. I got lucky with the puch and hit the 1/2 pin dead center first hit! I drilled a 1/4 hole then grabbed the 1/2 bit and let it rip. I am either getting better with age or luckier as I drilled it dead center. After about 3/8 of an inch in the pin fell out!

Took ir for a drive and the 25 year old minor play in the steering is gone. It feels snug and tracks perfect.

Thursday comes 2 of the the last of 3 major fixes. I attempt to pull loose the hub assemble left front , pull the front drive shaft and replace a bad u-joint. Instead of putting back together all old stuff I am putting on a new hub when it all goes back together! Illl post a picture or two if my phone survives any anger that may arise! Nah...those days are gone...now I just get even!

My grandaughter offered to help...I told her nope this is a one person job. I had to convince her it really was and I wasn't kidding! What a great gal!


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## pokeyjeeper

Your a smart man those hubs are prone to fail do the job once


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## Larry

Look I have it in writing....I am a smart man! Don do not let anyone edit Pokeys words! :roflmao:

Pokey not smart just, cognizant of my ignorance. Its been said that ......"Mistakes are painful when they happen, but years later a collection of mistakes called Wisdom leads us to success"

None the less thanks Pokey for the advise. I had no idea what issues there are with modern Jeeps. However, I know the old Willy's broke down allot, that is why even today the are so many parts around

Larry


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## youngdon

Larry said:


> Look I have it in writing....I am a smart man! Don do not let anyone edit Pokeys words! :roflmao:
> 
> Larry


I'm not sure exactly what he said Larry as he used "your" instead of "you're".....Maybe it's the same....Maybe not. Either way, I ain't going there. My best advice is to ask your wife. Good luck !


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## Larry

Your...belonging to or associated with the person or people that the speaker is addressing.

Jeez...I have to explain everything!


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## Larry

I found this photo of a miniature Willy's we designed from my old 1947. Its made from plywood, a hand made steel frame, and a engine and hydro-stat drive from my old Troy Built Riding Lawnmower. The headlights are from the Lawnmower and fit just right!. The Jerry can in the back does contain gas and is the fuel tank for the Jeep.


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## 220swift

Sweet!!!!!


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## pokeyjeeper

Man I'm not a smart man when it comes to book smarts I'm just a farm boy,trapper,predator caller sorry I didn't spell you're correctly lol


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## Larry

Pokey...I hereby say your smart! In fact because your a trapper and a caller.....you automatically qualify for a Th.D., or Doctor of Thinkology!


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## pokeyjeeper

lol good one Larry


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## Larry

Getting close to finishing a summer long project! Tomorrow my Granddaughter should have a reliable vehicle for college.

Today I tore apart the passenger left front end. Hub and U joint was replaced. I would of shown a picture but the old phone is full. The hub and shaft came out smooth. Had some issues finding a Torx 22 female socket, but Sears came through! Hit the bolts with the impact wrench and and whacked it twice and the hub was free. So was the wheel shaft.









Problem came about with the universal joint. Went to the farm and 3 hours later and sever trips to the 20 ton press and couple good hammer wacks and the u-Joint caps finally came off. It always good to have a farm shop close and one I can use anytime! Phewwwwww! Long day but the 1993 Wrangler now has a new u-joint and bearing hub assembly. BTW the Torx bolts went in the garbage and refitted with 19MM head bolts!


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## Larry

Lets see , from May 15 to Today.......we'll thast Almost 3 months exactly; since I first posted and all my friends on PT said go for the Jeep. Just for tickles I monitored person hours including parts ordering....took 180 of them total. Longest day worked was 11 hours with a break for lunch.

Worst issue was ordering an instrument gauge set from EBAY. Almost got ripped off as the photo showed a complete set all nice and complete, when it arrived it was broke in two. I spoke to the US Postal Inspector at our post office. She gave me her card. I scanned the card, emailed him through EBAY and and told the guy if I am not refunded I am coming after him. Guess I scared him and EBAY enough as I was refunded in a week.

You guys know the best event of the whole thing! Working with my Granddaughter and teaching her as much as I can about engineering and mechanics. Last lesson continuity and printed boards with embedded resistors like those found on the rheostat for the dash lights. AS we sanded a few thousands of copper off each trace with 1,000 grit sandpaper. We did that to clean it up so the rheostat wipers would make good continuity. As we sanded on the front patio table, I explained all about using a Volt, Ohm, Meter, circuit design considerations and aluminum heat transfer characteristics as it had an aluminum heat sink.

Then I went into the house and over the fridge was an 1/2 of a prototype cast aluminum heat sink I designed for the military. I saw in her eyes a look that Pappa had never seen...it was a look that was, " you really do know all of this stuff!" She hugged me and said I was the best and all her college friends that were engineering students should study under me! Trust me guys, out of all of my patents, designs and fixes that was the best! I am still smiling!

Last day of the Jeep...while she worked her last day of summer at the grocery store, I finalized sealing the tail gate seal, mounted the fuel pump lid I manufactured for ease of access to the fuel pumps, and then it was under the Jeep for some new grade 5, 5/16 hanger bolts for the fuel tank hangers. Something I had on my list and figured it was a final cleanup item.

Grandma Larry was in charge of touch up of all remaining rust spots with her artist paint brush. You know like where wrenches scratched a bolt head and surface rust started. I stood there with a rag and when she needed more paint for her brush, I would spray some on the rag. Last touch up was a tad bit if repaint on the hood hold down latches.

I grabbed the refinished scissor jack that was setting on the floor for 3 months. Installed it in its holder. Grandma touched up where I scratched it a tad with rust preserver and ......THE 1993 JEEP YJ Wrangler is now a reliable college vehicle my favorite Granddaughter!

The End................

View attachment 26434


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## glenway

Off life support and onto the road. Good going, Larry. Certainly to be a worthwhile endeavor for your granddaughter, who undoubtedly has learned some useful skills. Anything worth having is worth working for is always a good lesson plan.


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## Larry

glenway said:


> ....... Certainly to be a worthwhile endeavor for your granddaughter, who undoubtedly has learned some useful skills. Anything worth having is worth working for is always a good lesson plan.


Well put Glen!


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## pokeyjeeper

Good deal Larry it's been fun following you doing the referb


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