# badger ?



## powytrash

How would you set on a badger den? I've found a few fresh dens and it's my understanding that fresh dens this time of year would be a badger and I would really like to try to trap them


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## Ruger

When my father and I were trapping together we always caught them on accident in ouur bobcat sets. Mostly in dirthole sets. If ya catch one they will most likely burrow a hole in the ground trying to get away. Be careful they are ferocious! Ya grab ahold of the trap chain to pull em out of the hole and they'll come out after ya ready to rip you to shreds. We were always lucky if we caught em by the hind foot, that away when ya were pulling em out of the hole the business end wasn't coming at ya first.


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## saskredneck

When my grandpa was a young man he was out cultivating and saw a badger in the field. He parked the tractor on top of his hole and grabbed the badger by the tail. He then walked home and threw it in an old grainery. In the time it took him to go get the family to show them the badger it tore a hole in the shed and escaped.

I've never trapped a badger or grabbed one by the tail but I did kill one with a big stick once.

Good luck


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## nastyfox

I learned how to trap when I was eight years old by trapping badgers in den sets in southern MN, and they've always been one of my favorite animals. Now where I live, they're not legal to trap, but I still catch quite a few in canine sets and release them. The den sets I used to make were very simply blind sets at the den entrances and covered with grass and leaves. Today, I would bury the traps to pick up any inspecting canines as well. It's important to use longer chains so that the badger doesn't dig your stakes up. He'll dig at the edge of a catch circle, so a factory chain is too short. 
Badgers are attracted to loud baits and lures, as well as fresh digging. If you put a baited dirt hole anywhere near fresh dens, he'll find it. Same with an unbaited hole, as the digging alone will attract him. They're pretty easy to catch.
Now to address a badger's demeanor. It drives me crazy the way people talk about them. The only time I was ever concerned about them was when I caught my very first one at eight years old. I've handled a lot since then, and have never been chased or attacked. Snarled at yes, but they eventually give up on that. They cower pretty easily, like a lot of coyotes do. If you ever need to release one, the best way is to use a catch pole. Yes, they do have necks. Another false claim. Let them bite at the noose until eventually they cower and give up. At this point you can do just about anything to them. Catch poles aren't necessary, but just extra safe. Often times, I'll tap them on the head or nose, tap not hit, with a stick until they cower. Then you can grab them behind the neck like a house cat. They'll scream for a couple seconds, but then you can do what ever you need to do. Sorry to preach. I just get fed up with hearing about how nasty they are. They're not nearly as threatening as a bobcat, otter or even just a ticked off boar raccoon.


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## Mick105

Nastyfox, since you seem to have a pretty good idea about trapping badgers can you tell me if blocking their enterance with a conibear is an option. I dont know anything about them so I dont know if a 330 would be big enough or if they are other reasons why that might not be a good idea.


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## nastyfox

I've never tried a bodygrip at a den. Do your trapping regs allow setting of dryland 330's? A 220 or even 160 would be plenty large for a badger. Large raccoons are actually larger than badgers. I have read that snares are effective, as badgers don't detect them, but sorry, I have never tried either, only footholds. Don't be afraid to experiment. You should have no problem catching one as long as they're around. Just be patient, as they move around a lot and have surprisingly large home ranges. If you see fresh excavation, they should be pretty close in the winter though. Good luck!


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## Mick105

330's are illegal in MI on public lands uless the are submerged or elevated 4 ft. In MI, body grip traps with a jaw spread greater that 5.5 inch on public land need to be submerged or more that 4 ft off the ground. If unbait (lure and scent included) you can use up to 6.5 inch spread (160). But then there are some other stipulations about how high off the ground the top jaw can be and a bunch of other crap to confuse the trapper. Our law makers like to overcoplicate things. Private land doesnt apply to these laws.


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## Ruger

I caught one a couple of weeks ago. It was real thick fur and good color in. I cased it out when I skinned. Had to do a lot of fleshing and fat removal on him and then put it on a stretcher. Was this the proper way to put up a badger? Any suggestions would be helpful.


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## Mick105

Cased fur in I believe is the correct way. We dont have many in the are so I have never set for them


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## nastyfox

Badgers are put up similar to beaver, but in a rectangular final shape rather than oval. It's easiest to case skin and flesh them like you did, but then slit them up the middle when done. I don't know of any badger patterns like there are for beaver, so just attempt to make the most uniform rectangle you can. 
I sold them in the round when I was young, but have put a few up for friends and trappers ed classes since. You can probably find stretching requirements on the North American or Fur Harvester Auctions websites.


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