# Muzzle loader revolver question



## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

I have two rifles and no questions on them, but my son is buying me a piettea 44 brass frame (for Christmas) I have been reading on them and I know not to load over 25 gr. My question is do you use a wad between the powder and ball and then still pack the cylinder with the lube or can you put the ball on the powder and only pack it then. If the ball isnt close enough to the face of the cylinder should I use corn meal to fill the needed space? Anyway I have never used a BP revolver as you can tell.


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## poe (Feb 10, 2010)

sorry im no help as I have also never used one


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

I don't use any filler yet with 35 grains and the ball I still have plenty of room to the front of the cylinder. If you have the option go with the all steel as opposed to the brasser (it's just stronger). If you use a wad between the ball and powder you don't need to grease anything. Some don't grease even without a wad. If your ball cuts a solid ring while being loaded it's unlikely that you'll experience a chain fire. After all of that, check out this site. http://1858remington.com/discuss/index.php Plenty of reading and good people.


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Yes Fred I know the steel is stronger, but a gift is a gift and I wont be hunting with it unless I would get drawn for HAM Javelina( handgun,archery,muzzleloader)It will be more of a plinker.

Another question. anyone ever use American Powder , I think its called. I can get a case 12- 1 lb bottles(2ff or 3ff) shipped for $219 and that includes the haz fee ! thats around $18 ea


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

It's American Pioneer. this is what i use, but 1lb has lasted me 5 years LOL

it seems to burn pretty clean. I like it. Go fff.


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

WOW, 5 yrs per pound x 12 lbs = 60 yrs and I am almost 64 LOL, nope too much powder.


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## wilded (Feb 10, 2010)

[sub]No lube needed if you use wads between powder and ball. Do grease the cylinder pin so that fowling does not gum up the cylinder. Brass will last a lifetime if you do not shoot hot loads. You will find the light loads are more accurate anyway. JMHO[/sub]

[sub]The guys at this forum can answer any questions you have www.gunslingersgulch.com tell them Wilded sent you.[/sub]


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

Ed, probably 3 of those years I shot 6 or 12 shots lol. I'm sure you'll get some use out of it. Now you'd best be casting your own lead balls as well.


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## RWP45 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ed I had a Navy Colt I use to shoot a lot. I use cornmeal between the powder and ball. Never know when a chain reaction might go off. Different strokes for different folks....


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks guys for all the input.
Fred I havent bought that powder yet, guess I will just buy it by the pound it wont be that much more and yes I have all the tools for making my own round balls and conical for the rifles, I just have to buy a 44 mold.

RWP45, I read about the corn meal and was wondering guess I can experiment carefully.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

Filler is typically used to fill the void that is left in the distance from the end of the ball to the end of the cylinder. Mine shoot fine even with the ball sitting back many thousandths from the end of the cylinder. I typically use a lubed wad between the powder and ball to prevent chainfire. I've even gone to the point of buying a wad cutter so I can make my own out of felt, recycled paper like egg cartons, commercial grade flourescent dividers. If you check the link I provided they also have recipes for home brewed lube.


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## wilded (Feb 10, 2010)

A lot of us even make our own powder and cast our balls. I also load blackpowder cartridges. Most chain fires are caused by loose fitting percussion caps and sloppy loading like filling a chamber with powder and then crushing a ball on top. I have never heard of a chain fire with anyone that used a wad and I have never had one in over 45 years of bpshooting. FYI Cabelas has a heck of an after Thanksgiving sale on brass frame 1851 revolvers for $139.00 
Shoot whatever makes you comfortable and stay safe. JMHO

Here is a link to making your own blackpowder
http://wildedtx.blogspot.com/2012/08/making-your-own-black-powder.html


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## 220swift (Mar 2, 2011)

During the 1970's and early 80's I did a lot of competitive shooting and a lot black powder. Buck skinning, rendezvous and competitions were a really big thing in the Midwest. I have personally witnessed at least a dozen "chain firing" empting of all chambers with one pull of the trigger on a BP revolver and it sure makes shooters on the firing line hit the dirt and yes there were some injuries (minor), but hell we were buck skinners. Throw a little dirt on it and finish the day.

In our group we used Coco Wheat for filler and all greased the front of each round. I shot a Ruger Old Army model in a .45 cal. I would hope that in the last 40 plus years these technologies have improved. If I was to get back into a black powder revolver though, I would use a filler and grease the front of each chamber. JMO


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## wilded (Feb 10, 2010)

I would bet none of those chain fire shooters used a wad between the powder and ball. I also would be that some of the chain fires had grease over the ball...just wondering. In the old days nobody used lubed wads, but lots of people shot the wrong size percussion caps which will cause a chain fire real quick. JMHO


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## 220swift (Mar 2, 2011)

you're right wilded, lubed wads were not used back then and the cap thing was a possibility although, I only remember two style of caps, the percussion cap and the musket cap which was larger..........things were at times a little crude back then.......


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## wilded (Feb 10, 2010)

_For instance if you shoot a Pietta with Number 11 caps you will find some fall off or fly off when you shoot unless you pinch them down. You are running the risk of a chain fire lube or no lube. You should shoot Remington number 10 or at least CCI number 10 caps for a proper fit and seal. The blowback on loose caps is amazing. ET_


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

I was planning on starting out powder, wad, ball with no filler and then progress with filler untill the ball reaches the end of cylinder and see which gives the best accuracy. Question once I start using a filler do I still need the wad?


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

Essentially no. You've filled any void that spark would travel down with the filler. The other reason to use a wad (or grease) is to help keep the barrel from fouling so fast. I know some people have trouble with the cylinder pin seizing up but using only wads (or nothing) and the American Pioneer powder I've fired cylinder after cylinder though mine and have no trouble with this pin sticking. When you wonder how chain fires happen, look at these pics.


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Those are some impressive pics, thanks for posting Fred

I cant seem to find the American Pioneer powder except where they want to sell a whole case of it, from what you said and what I have researched I would like to use it.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

You could always send me a couple lbs







I'll be shooting more this winter. I use this in my rifle as well.

Those weren't my pictures, I borrowed them from the other place. it's amazing how much fire comes out around the cylinder when the spacing between the cylinder and barrel is different. The top picture was a 1858, the bottom picture was a Navy colt with a larger gap.


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Ok, here are a couple of pics of my early Christmas presents. Went shooting and was surprised at the groups I could shoot but all were pretty high. Have to adjust the notch in hammer and then finish my tests with filler and no filler, but I got hooked on the black powder revolver.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

You'll enjoy those.


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