# Canine and Cat Traping for the begginer



## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

I started answering a couple of private messages I got about how does an absolute new person get started in trapping cannines and cats. I decided that instead of keeping my info to them private perhaps others want to gain "MY" insight on how I would start.

I hope others will add in their knowledge as well. Its poorly written as I have not had time to edit it as my son needs my help. But I belive you will get an idea.

1. I like my traps with a 6 to 7 inch jaw, these would be a size 3 or 4. Minnesota brand traps are a little different with their numbering. They number like this&#8230;MB 450, MB550 etc. Why so big of jaws? I don't like losing fur that's why. I have canines and cat so quick they actually are caught by the entire lower leg and foot in the jaws as they try to "jump" the set. . If the jaw size would have been smaller I would have had a miss because the trap wasn't quick enough. That extra ½ inch or inch makes up for trap speed. Especially when it's wet ground. Notice I didn't say frozen ground because if you make your sets correctly with salt or dirt/wax mixture, there is no frozen ground. Also if you use wax paper.

2. The next item is swivels, chain and drags. How will you make sure that animal will be there when you get back?

i. Chain&#8230; personal preference for Iowa and Nebraska coyotes that are staked. Is a short chain with swivels on the trap, in 3 inches from the trap and then on the anchor. Some guys disagree, it's just my preference as I don't want that canine or cat to get a run. This is not snaring the trap anchors itself. The chain is around 6-8 inches long. Just long enough to bed the trap without tripping it. Since I set the trap before staking I have no mess at the set. Lately I have been using quick disconnects because if I get a catch I can remove the trap, reset with a trap set away from the bed and then just bed.

ii. Swivels&#8230;buy the best you can afford and you won't regret it. Remove the ones that come with the trap and replace with a good one especially if you start with less expensive traps like Duke. Do not use fisherman barrel swivels, those are for above ground out of the dirt snares. For in dirt use find a swivel that has a larger hole in the J-hook connection then the J-Hook diameter. Eventually all swivels rust and a larger hole will prevent freeze ups. Good swivels ensure that when the canine or cat start rolling, their foot doesn't twist out of the trap.

iii. Drags&#8230;I like my drags as I trap along roads where people can see my catch if its staked. However they can be a pain without a dog and snow. Especially in rocky places. For drags a 5 foot chain is nominal for places where scrub is nonexistent like open meadows or cow pastures. I make my own drags and I won't recommend a certain brand or style as each area of this country has a use for the two dozen or my types that have been invented. I will say this if you are setting for cats or coyotes in a timber setting out of sight of people, there is nothing wrong with using a solid piece of log maybe 3 to 5 feet long and 3-4 inches in diameter.

iv. Other stuff&#8230;some guys like to cross stake. I have never found a need for it if your stakes are variable. While a 18inch rebar stake may be enough for frozen ground&#8230;a 36 incher is better for dry sandy soil. I have never had one stake pull out using a short chain and "selecting" the right stake for the soil conditions.

3. Trap style

i. For years in the late 60's and 70's I used #3 victor double springs for canines exclusively. I still may use one or two with a drag if the cover is thin and I doubt Ill get a good hookup with the drag. I do it because I want the animal to wear itself out.

ii. Mostly though my canine and cat traps are "4" coil spring type. The biggest reason is they are compact and when the ground is frozen there is less dirt to chip away. If you don't have the funds to buy 4 coils; two coils are fine. Especially if the soil is sandy and not clay. IMHO 4 coils are just faster and that speed gets them out of the ground with little delay. AKA: raps are plenty strong I want speedy traps as canines and cats are very fast when the react.

iii. I have no preference as to square jawed or round jaw. Since I use steel wire screen as my trap cover (not aluminum it's not strong enough) I could care less about making my pans bigger, like some think they must have.

4. Before you dig a hole&#8230;

i. Okay here's another one after you determine if you like canine and cat trapping. Trust me in today's world it's not inexpensive to get started. Trapping like calling demands you need to know the habits of your quarry for the varying times of the year and to be consistent you better have more knowledge then any PHD in biology does. You don't need that PHD's vocabulary, but you better know your quarry. Even then you won't know enough it seems.

ii. You need to be able to read sign also. Example: A novice trapper will look at trail and see tracks everywhere day after day. He will believe the area is loaded with coyotes when in fact it's just one that has found a vole or a kangaroo rat smorgasbord. My point is some guys would load the area with traps right from the get go and waste time. Load the area with traps for just one coyote pup&#8230;not this trapper. I would put out a snare in the trail and after I snagged one coyote I would come back in a week or so and see if new sign appears. If it does then I know to perhaps load the area with steel traps. Always study the track as Coyotes and cat tracks are as unique as deer tracks if you have the mind to study them. Also if you can tell the difference between fresh cat sign and old. I say this as cats may not come back to the same area for weeks. Not knowing how fresh the sign is may cause you to pull or leave a trap to long.

iii. As a trapper your hands are your friends. Take care of them. Don't think your so tuff you don't need hand lotion at night. Nothing will ruin trapping more than cracks at the thumb and fingers nails. Not to mention I gave up on gloves back in the 70's I found human scent doesn't last that long and if I did everything right at the bed no coyote will discern a little human odor over that of urine, lure and bait. And its allot easier to set a trap and bed with bare hands then cumbersome gloves which give you no feel. Afraid of picking up canine or cat scat with your bare hands as it's a powerful trap line tool.

iv. Scat is your friend. Cherish it. I am not being funny, like any Veterinarian or MD you need to become acquainted with it. For one the obvious if there is cat scat..you have a very active area as cats, like their litter boxes and just like house cats know where they are. Coyote scat is used by old males and territorial females in February and March to outline their backyards. If you see scat on a road or trail that canine will return in a few days to freshen things up. Also pick it up and use at the set. For canines it not only a good attractant its can also be used to guide a paw to the pan. For cats&#8230;we'll where one craps others will follow. Carry a coffee can with you when scouting and pick up as much as you can.

5. Set types&#8230;there are so many variations of flat sets and bait holes and how to construct them I suggest all google making canine sets. Keep eye appeal in mind, while allot of guys will put in a 2 inch hole....I tear up the area when making a bait hole, no different then mothers natures other animals do. Can you imagine a curious fox, coyote or cat walking along at 11:00 AM and seeing a dark spot on a hill side about 75 to 100 yards away. How can a 2 inch hole be seen? in other words don't just rely on that lure, urine and bait to draw the canine in, as like cats why not give that canine a visual lure also.

As for cat sets&#8230;don't think you have to always make a cubby with a visual lure. Often a little gland lure at the end of a log is all it takes for a cat.

In closing on sets, don't get hung up one making one or two type of sets because that worked for Joe Trapper , if you know your quarry well enough and the area, let those dictate how the set is made.

6. Lures/baits and urine&#8230;so many to choose from. All I can say for certain is that for canines and cats&#8230;you can never go wrong with fox lures/baits and urine. Yes young canines and kittens learn in grade school fox like to cache their extra food.


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## jimmy shutt (Jun 2, 2013)

good info thanks Larry


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## azpredatorhunter (Jul 24, 2012)

I don't know Larry... I am a firm believer in wearing gloves for k-9's, even though I never trapped coyote, only red fox. Coyotes just weren't everywhere like today, my father caught a few down by Lake Michigan in the sand dunes, I had to walk to my trapping grounds.


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

azpredatorhunter said:


> I don't know Larry... I am a firm believer in wearing gloves for k-9's, even though I never trapped coyote, only red fox. Coyotes just weren't everywhere like today, my father caught a few down by Lake Michigan in the sand dunes, I had to walk to my trapping grounds.


I wrote a long read regarding why gloves aren't required at canine sets...anyone want me to post it.


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## azpredatorhunter (Jul 24, 2012)

I am good... Long winded post without pictures aren't my favorite.????..


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## Ruff (Jan 15, 2013)

Thanks for the post, I have trapped a little and then got out of it for a few years ( I became a parent) so that that the kids are older they are wanting to get back out. Again thanks for the informative post.


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