# Anyone hunt with a recurve?



## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Hey guys, I have an old recurve that was passed on to me. I was wanting to try some bow hunting this year, but arent able to buy a compound right now. How does recurve hunting work out? I know its often done, but are there any issues with it? Also, I would imagine its going to take some time to get proficient with it. Does anyone have advice/tips/warning/input of any kind? I am heading to Bass pro in the next couple days to get it checked out and some arrows and stuff for it.


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## Live2Hunt (Dec 12, 2010)

Hey D-M, My two son's and I hunt with recurves and long bows. The best advice I can give you is make sure it is in good condition before wasting alot of time and money. ( No limbs twisted, cracks and good string ) Make sure who ever sets the bow knows what they are doing, thats the big one. The longer the bow the more accurate 60" or better are more forgiving, alittle hard to move with in a tree stand, but accuracy makes up for it. We all shoot a 45 to 55# draw weight. We do not use sights, their a waste of money on a traditional bow. Instinct shoooting you pull back and release, no time to hold and look at your sights. Anylway what we do for practice, is kick a tennis ball around in the yard and shoot at it. ( Lots of practice 10 yards max) Once you master that, move to longer distance decoys, targets ect.	Hope this will help!


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## knapper (Feb 5, 2010)

I have spent the last 15 years with a recurve and had to give it up due to it being too much for my shoulder. My max. range was 25 yds. I now shoot a compound bow and am blown away by the bells and whisles that make shots to 40-50 yds. possible. I am dealing with the change, working up to the draw weight to be leagel for hunting the bigger animals up here.


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

I am not sure if it is any good or not, but here is what I have:


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

I see you got both of your toys in the pic d_m . Nice bow.


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Thats what I play with when Im not in the woods.


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## Antlerz22 (Apr 18, 2011)

destructive_mechanic said:


> Hey guys, I have an old recurve that was passed on to me. I was wanting to try some bow hunting this year, but arent able to buy a compound right now. How does recurve hunting work out? I know its often done, but are there any issues with it? Also, I would imagine its going to take some time to get proficient with it. Does anyone have advice/tips/warning/input of any kind? I am heading to Bass pro in the next couple days to get it checked out and some arrows and stuff for it.


The most important thing is a quiet bow . Get some limbsaver vibration dampers, and some cloth puffs (whiskers) to put in the strings. Dont get the rubber as they stretch during the transition from a drawn string to the released string--and upon the sudden stop from being stretched in the release movement they make noise. Also get a bow stringer, it prevents you from twisting the bow limbs during stringing it for use which was the old step through the limb method. As far as arrows go, after you find your draw length, you need to know the weight of it in grains with the insert and nock and fletching. Then just add the weight of the broadhead. After you get the total weight in grains, you divide that by the poundage of the bow. That should be at a minimum of 5 grains as anything lighter is akin to dry firing the bow ( not enough arrow weight) Which also means the flight of the arrow leaves radical (flexing a bunch--porpoising) after release. The IMO ideal ratio is 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 grains per pound of draw weight, the heavier might be slower but its a lot quieter and it does transfer that into kinetic energy upon impact delivering deeper penetration and actually helps for a pass through which ultimately is desired. An arrow that sticks in and the deer runs off with it is NOT good. Lastly if you decide on aluminum arrows vs carbon, go with the size above the recommended such as if it calls for a 2117 go with a 2213 etc.. the first 2 digits are for the the size and the second digits are for the thickness. You gain stiffness (spine) in an arrow by increasing the size of the arrow, and while the thickness recommended by charts is understandable it doest necessarily equate when it comes to an arrow that leaves the bow with a bunch of wobble till it stabilizes. You want an arrow that comes off as flat and stable as possible. A wobbling arrow in flight also translates into audible vibrations in the air a deer can hear, hence "jumping string". Id rather shoot a slow, stable, hard hitting, and yes IMO accurate arrow. Hope this helps--I havent read the posts from this, so if I repeated anyone thats why.


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Thanks A22. I am ordering a string right now and heading out to a guy I mets house this saturday hopefully. He had shot stuff all over the world with recurves and seems to know his stuff. He is gonna do a bunch to my bow and is going to pass me a bunch of hand-me-down stuff. Hopefully next week I will be getting the hang of that bad boy and getting ready to shoot something come bow season!


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## knapper (Feb 5, 2010)

They now have the noise of a compound down to that of a quiet recurve, the limbsavers really work as well as the cat whiskers.


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## knapper (Feb 5, 2010)

Today I screwed up my new sprocket rocket when I was working on building up the correct mussel to draw it, it slipped out of my fingers and popped the string sight off. Not sure if I did any other damage. I have plans for that bow this winter and need to get used to using it. Tomorrow it is to the rifle range for the other hunting I plan on doing. I will began finding axcess to the areas that are close in for when the ground starts to freeze up and makes travel in the area more execessable. Swamps are hard to navigate and there is the mud that creates a problem.


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Yeah man, the more mechanical something is, the more prone it is to failure. I would imagine Alaskan swamps are pretty awesome!


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## ReidRH (Feb 1, 2010)

I have a recurve I inherited, I know absolutely nothing about them, What aboout carbon arrows in them? I am considering going more traditional before my shoulders stop me from doing so. but none of the shops around here know much about them. I am in the process of researching the correct way to rig it up right. A22 i may need some input! I dont think i will be shooting over 20 yards at all!


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## Antlerz22 (Apr 18, 2011)

ReidRH said:


> I have a recurve I inherited, I know absolutely nothing about them, What aboout carbon arrows in them? I am considering going more traditional before my shoulders stop me from doing so. but none of the shops around here know much about them. I am in the process of researching the correct way to rig it up right. A22 i may need some input! I dont think i will be shooting over 20 yards at all!


What poundage is it, and draw length? Carbons are definitely shootable in a recurve, they are light and spine well. Use longer fletching (5 inch) and with a slight helical (twist) recurves need more going for it arrow wise than compounds--especially if shooting off the shelf. Myself I use a regular arrow rest much like the kind that already comes with them. Its like a little finger sticking out that you rest it on above the shelf, that helps keep the arrow from getting a radical start as opposed to shooting off the shelf. Both methods are accurate however--but it takes lots of practice. You can take shots out to 35~40 yards but you have to be one with the bow and know that the deer isnt going to step right after you release. Look at your limbs under a quartz light when they are relaxed (unstrung bow) on the face of the limbs (side facing game/target) and look for small striations/lines from tip to where the limb no longer flexes from at full draw. There should be none if the limbs are sound, then string your bow and look again with the quartz light for the same thing--there might -might not be any striations. A small amount and in only a small area shouldnt be too much of a concern. That lets you know if the fiberglass is starting to show age and or damage--again depending on how much etc..Put some limb savers on the inside of the limbs, and right below where they flex-that way they arent affecting limb movement but at the same time reducing vibrations. And use string puffs about 1/3 of the way down from the tips. Dont use the rubber ones as the rubber stretches when the string launches forward and then they do the same as the string stops. That makes noise, but the fabric puffs dont have the stretch problem, yet help absorb string vibrations. Lastly when you find your nocking point , dont put on the kind that you use pliers to crimp on the string--they ruin your serving there. The best approach to that is, get some serving string/twine, lay one end of it on the serving then double back an inch or so leaving a loop on one end as well as leaving the line open on the other end--leave about a foot of line out on the end . Then start wrapping tightly around and around leaving that loop accessible for later as well as a good portion of string at the end of the line to be able to grab and wrap around a pencil or such for pulling (will explain here in a minute). So what you should be looking at would be a "ball" of line getting gradually bigger in the middle, with a loop out of one side and a long line hanging out of the other side. The size of the ball is personal preference, but all that its job is, is to rest your arrow under. It will be your nocking point. What is important is the bottom of the ball you just wound up has to be exactly where your nocking point is. This is important as well, as you start winding the line around, have some fletchtite to smear on it as you wrap a few times, and continue until the ball gets to a size you like. When its the size you want, end your wrapping back to where you can insert it into the loop--and cut it off leaving about 4 inches extra. Make sure you have fletchtite on the ball etc as it helps hold the line from unwrapping! As you hold slight tension on the line you put through the loop--start pulling the other end of the line--its going to be somewhat hard to pull but it pulls the loop back under and through the ball you just made along with the end of the line-- and out the other side. This keeps your ball from loosening up from unwrapping. sounds complicated but it isnt really. And if done right will never move. One more thing, dont make the ball real big or "steep" as it could unlayer itself even if glued. Keep it laying more wide than tall and dont keep wrapping in one spot. Wrap just like a bait casting reel does--keep it moving as you wrap and that helps to keep it from coming apart later on.


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## ReidRH (Feb 1, 2010)

It is a Ben Pearson 58 " Long, 45/50 lb pull 28" draw it looks to be in excellent shape, according to the guy I got it from in had not been shot 25 times and has been in a closet since. I dont know that I would hunt with it exclusively just thought I would give it a try! The nock point is already set but i would check this the string looks like it is brand new. I would be shooting off the shelf and it is fitted with a limb quiver.


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## ReidRH (Feb 1, 2010)

Well I tried to add a pic of the bow but I couldnt get it to work!


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## ReidRH (Feb 1, 2010)

I will try this again! Hopefully yall will be able to see the pic of the Recurve Bow I got. Hoping to Hunt with it within the next week!


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## Antlerz22 (Apr 18, 2011)

ReidRH said:


> It is a Ben Pearson 58 " Long, 45/50 lb pull 28" draw it looks to be in excellent shape, according to the guy I got it from in had not been shot 25 times and has been in a closet since. I dont know that I would hunt with it exclusively just thought I would give it a try! The nock point is already set but i would check this the string looks like it is brand new. I would be shooting off the shelf and it is fitted with a limb quiver.


2 of my bows are pearsons (compound), many a deer have fallen to them and hogs as well. If your draw length is longer, you can actually pull a bit further say 2 inches more max, and for every inch more over stated draw length you gain apx 5 lbs per inch over. Keep your string waxed always! Its probably the most neglected yet important thing you can do.


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## Antlerz22 (Apr 18, 2011)

ReidRH said:


> View attachment 2837
> 
> 
> I will try this again! Hopefully yall will be able to see the pic of the Recurve Bow I got. Hoping to Hunt with it within the next week!


Looks nice, does it have a screw in adapter in front for a stabilizer or bowfishing reel? Also you might want to look at a quickie quiver by bear archery, vs the the kind you have as the quickie has a hood to protect the broadheads as well as be safer for you in case you fall down etc..


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

Nice looking bow Richard. Good luck with it.


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## ReidRH (Feb 1, 2010)

it has No screw in adaption points at all. I will be getting arrows, broadheads ect ASAP. Hopefully wont take me too long to get proficient with it.


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## bones44 (Jan 7, 2011)

Very nice bow Richard. I have a Black Widow Recurve from 1962. Hunted with it up until my surgery last year. Carbon arrows are a great substitute for cedar and much straighter and stronger. Like AZ22 said longer the length of pull = more poundage. It's more of a challenge but a great feeling of accomplishment when you finally connect ! Good luck !


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Yeah, mine is [email protected]" and I am drawing 30 1/2". Its all good. A great site to check out if you are wanting to go traditional is "tradgang.com". It has a wealth of info about it. Your arrows are pretty important shooting trad. You may want to make sure they are spined properly for your bow, etc. I have been shooting since I first started this thread and am shoot fairly well out to 20 yards, so I dont think you will have any problems picking it up Ried. If I can do it, anyone can. Also, if you start off shooting 3 fingers under it will put you ahead of the power curve for accuracy.


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## bones44 (Jan 7, 2011)

It's funny you brought that up DM. I just read an article regarding that. Very good info. I was taught at age six to use the split finger. Never knew the difference. I've been using one off and on for 36 years. Hell, my first two compounds never had sights ! LOL Thanks for bringing that up as it may help others too in just starting out.


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## ReidRH (Feb 1, 2010)

I Shot My Bow about a hundred times in the last two days getting the hang of it out to 20 yards!! Working nights has its advantages!


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Hey Bones, where are you reading trad archery stuff? My go to guy for trad archery is pretty awesome. He turned me on to that.

Ried, i am no expert by any means, and other guys on here can give you alot more info on it, but it is probably a good idea to get your bow tuned pretty soon(if you havent all ready). That way your brace height, nock point, etc will be right so you can start off shooting as accurately as possible while developing your muscle memory.


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## bones44 (Jan 7, 2011)

DM, my Dad taught me at a young age. Every once in awhile I'll pick up a traditional archery magazine for a look through for something different. Other than that, I'm all over the net for new and interesting things.


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Hey Bones, what trad magazines are you reading? All the ones I have seen are kinda gay. Have you ever tried any predator hunting with your bow? Ive been wanting to take a night fox (easy confidence target), but dont have anyone to hold the light for me...lol.


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## bones44 (Jan 7, 2011)

There's one I see all the time called "Traditional Bowhunter". I see it on the racks all the time here in Michigan. It's a pretty good read. Some of our Michigan magazines also have guys that are sworn tried and true traditional guys that write articles every month. Never have tried predator with a bow. May just do that this year. We'll see.


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## Antlerz22 (Apr 18, 2011)

destructive_mechanic said:


> Hey Bones, what trad magazines are you reading? All the ones I have seen are kinda gay. Have you ever tried any predator hunting with your bow? Ive been wanting to take a night fox (easy confidence target), but dont have anyone to hold the light for me...lol.


 Back in the sixties (late) i used to go out hunting rabbits by headlight with a 6 volt battery strapped to my belt, at the moment just before the shot I would shift the light on my forehead to the left, so the string wouldnt swipe it on release. I had my dad, grandpa, and uncles chuckle at me--they would be playing dominos ( i was like 10 ish), for going out at night to hunt rabbits. They quit chuckling when I came back with 3 shot in the head! So to answer your dilemma--use a headlight!


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## destructive_mechanic (Jul 22, 2011)

Yeah I need to get a new one. All my head lamps suck.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

Iv'e hunted with a longbow for the last 30 years. I've tried to get new people into it as much as possible. I have some friends who just couldn't get it, others who have picked it up and hit the bullseye from the very beginning.

Personally I prefer traditional over compounds because of 1) weight of the bow 2) quiet shooting.


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## NattyB (Jan 5, 2012)

Antlerz22 has this one pretty much answered up with great advice. I've hunted with longbows and recurves for over 20 years. Practice, practice, practice. Then do "other side" and "opposite exercises" in equal amounts to keep your muscles "balanced". For ex: 20 right handed bow shots, requires 20 left handed bow pulls and 20 push-ups. I know this sounds like a rigid discipline, but most of my bow hunting buddies are 50+ YOA and they all have to watch their shoulders big-time. I'm catching up to them at 43 YOA. Check out "Three Rivers Archery Supply" for equipment and books. "Instinctive Shooting" by G Fred Asbell is a great read. RS, NattyB


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## prairiewolf (Feb 19, 2012)

Ive been shooting archery for around 38 yrs main thing once you get setup is practice,practice and more practice until everything is automatic to you. Forget being Macho and start out close 10yds max. Dont move back until you can group your arrows close.


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