# Making a cow horn howler - advice needed



## LeadHead

Not long ago while at a gun/knife/ammo auction I bought a flat that included a polished cow horn that appears to be an unfinished project. I would like to make a coyote howler out of it but am not an experienced callmaker. Below are a couple of pictures and I am looking for advice as to what to do.







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## youngdon

What diameter is the opening on the tip end. It looks sort of cone shaped(tapered walls) correct ?


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## prairiewolf

It looks like the horn has been added to. But that doesnt matter. There are 3 things you can do to make it a howler for coyotes.

1. you can cut the tip off and drill a 1/2" hole and insert a toneboard

2. you can cut the tip with a saw or grinder ( I use a 4-1/2" grinder) and shape a toneboard, if the hole that is already there is very big you would have to go with inserting a toneboard.

3. You can always epoxy a piece of wood on the tip and insert a toneboard in it, thats how I make most of my howlers

If you need some pics on the steps PM me and I will see what I can do for you. Here are a couple of mine.


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## LeadHead

You are correct; it looks very similar to a trumpet mouthpiece. Are you asking about the diameter of the small, drilled hole or the largest diameter where it would fit against your mouth?


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## prairiewolf

Here is a pic of the other type

http://www.predatortalk.com/topic/13857-new-cronk-howler/?hl=cronk+howler


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## LeadHead

PW, I'll have to inspect it more closely to be sure, but it appears to be just one piece of horn and the whole thing is polished. The raised ridge toward the smaller end is interesting, though, and the way it's flared is also of interest. I'm not at home right now to measure it, but the small, drilled hole is about 3/16"-1/4" diameter.


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## LeadHead

Is Rich Cronk still making calls? I see he hasn't logged on to PT for a couple of years, now.

<edit>

Never mind, after doing a Google search I just found we are unfortunate in that he passed away some time back.


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## prairiewolf

If that is a one piece horn it is very unusual, thats for sure.


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## LeadHead

Should it not be quite evident if it's 2 pieces?


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## prairiewolf

You would think so, but the flare on the tip is hard to believe and the raised ring around the horn itself looks weird. I am not saying it is two parts, just have never seen such a horn like it that was real. I blew up the pics and the color grain looks to match and the flare doesnt look like it has been tampered with either, very very interesting !! Wish I could see the inside of it better.

I did several searches on the net for pics of cow horns, unusual cow horns and flared cow horns, didnt fin anything like it. I dont know if I would mess with it unless you could insert a toneboard in the flared part. If you can howl with a diaphragm call it would make a good amplifier


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## LeadHead

prairiewolf said:


> You would think so, but the flare on the tip is hard to believe and the raised ring around the horn itself looks weird. I am not saying it is two parts, just have never seen such a horn like it that was real. I blew up the pics and the color grain looks to match and the flare doesnt look like it has been tampered with either, very very interesting !! Wish I could see the inside of it better.
> 
> I did several searches on the net for pics of cow horns, unusual cow horns and flared cow horns, didnt fin anything like it. I dont know if I would mess with it unless you could insert a toneboard in the flared part. If you can howl with a diaphragm call it would make a good amplifier


I will try to get a better picture of it (in better light) this evening after work. The raised ring and flared end are indeed odd.

As for a diaphragm call, I have never attempted to howl with one. In fact, at this point I have no howler call at all other than a recording on my FoxPro.


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## prairiewolf

Do you have an open reed call, thats all you need.


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## LeadHead

The only open reed predator call that I have is a Primos Regulator #10. Pathetic, huh?


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## LeadHead

OK, here are a couple of better pics. I can see no evidence that it's made of 2 pieces of horn and the continuation of the coloration supports that. Is it possible that the horn was originally quite a bit larger than it is now and someone did much sanding and polishing to get the current shape?. Also, the drilled hole is more like an 1/8" instead of 1/4".


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## prairiewolf

I have never seen anything like that !!!

It looks like you could drill the small out to accept a 1/2" toneboard. How big of diameter is the inside, where it flares out like a mouth piece?


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## LeadHead

The outside diameter of the narrowest part before it flares is only .565", so it would most certainly have to be cut down first.


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## prairiewolf

How far from the flared our portion to the narrowest part, in other words from the tip down to the narrow spot.

But you are probably right. cut it off at the narrow place and then cut less than half way tthrough the horn about1-3/4 to 2" down and then either grind or cut from the tip back to the cut.


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## LeadHead

Is this what you need?


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## jimmy shutt

that is one of a kind....just me thinking and I don't know.... but aren't horns kind of like a big finger nail????? is it possible someone soaked that in water or chemical to reshape it????? either way you are at the right place to get good info, good luck with your build.


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## prairiewolf

You might be able to get a toneboard in that part.


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## Bigdrowdy1

Could it have possibly been meant to turn into a powder horn for black powder? Maybe cut down for effects? Cool looking for sure.


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## LeadHead

That's sort of what I was wondering.


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## Rick Howard

Looks like a hunting horn to me. Looks like the tip end of the horn, in its original state was probably very solid and the horn was shaped that way to the person who made the trumpet. If you look down the large end of the horn you might see evidence of hollowing. That would be a dead giveaway that the horn had very solid tips.

Like others said, I think your best bet is to ream the hole to accept a toneboard. It does not appear you will be able to get a one piece (toneboard and barrel) from that horn. Most of the prefab toneboards I see available are 5/8". (yeller dog)

The horn also appears pretty long. As much as I would hate to see it, you may want to chop it down if the call lacks volume.

If you really want to make a horn howler... I would suggest leaving that one intact. Its a pretty neat item as a trumpet. I will send you a couple cow horns that you can polish up and practice on. PM me your shipping info if you want them.


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## Larry

I hope I can help. I started a tradition 30 years ago that when a new caller/hunter got his first coyote with me I would make him a cow horn howler.

Quickly I discovered that not all cow horn tips are not made the same. Some were dense others ot so dense. Some were were inconsistent in taper, length and girth. I would spend hours making tone boards on the tips with many ruined because the angle of the board or the hole would not be quite right. It was an arduous task even with a band saw, power sander and dremel tool.

Around 2003, I was teaching Tony Tebbe how to make calls and showing him the ropes in Nebraska regarding how to locate, speed call and howl in yotes. Tony knew how I like to howl (speak yote) and my go to caller then was a Dan Thompson mouthpiece. In appreciation for taking him on our second trip he presented me with a complete Dan Thompson howler. Mouthpiece and Dan's hardwood amplifier tube.

That is when I got the idea, why not incorporate a Dan Thompson mouthpiece into a cow horn. I was amazed at my first howler. The ring was outstanding due to the hardness of the cow horn. (ring is a resonance one achieves when he hits pure notes, animals respond well to calls that ring). It was very loud and I could easily get responses 2 miles away.

The build was easy. All I needed to do was determine the correct diameter of the horn based on the diameter of the mouthpiece. Then move up 1/2 inch from there for assurance I had sufficient horn wall thickness. After that it was just a matter of drilling a stright pilot hole and then start making the hole tapered and enlarged to fit the mouthpiece.

The first one took awhile but after that short learning curve I could make a howler with the mouthpiece insert in 30 minutes. After the mouth piece was set just taper the tip to meet the mouthpiece for a finished look. Take the two apart and do you engraving. I like to engrave a name on one side and put coyote paws on the other. Sand the entire horn smooth. Take an fine tip marker and make the engravings black. Let it dry overnight. Wipe with a smooth damp cloth toremove dust and start applying a clear spray varnish. Three coats is sufficient.

Here is some of the work....its not hard and the howlers not only are a keepsake, they work very well especially for locating if you do any sort of speed calling.


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## LeadHead

Rick, I too thought that it appears to be some sort of trumpet the way they shaped the tip like a mouthpiece. I did try to blow it like a trumpet (having played the trumpet as a teenager) but couldn't get much sound or resonance from it. Perhaps it was someone's failed or incomplete hunting horn project.

The horn is about 15" long. You make a good point that cutting/ruining this one does seem a bit of a waste, considering the unique features it has, and I appreciate your generous offer. Will send you a PM.

Suggestions as to a good tone board and reed would be appreciated. Again, having never made a call I am pretty ignorant as to where to start regarding selection and prices.


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## LeadHead

DuckMaster, using a Dan Thompson mouthpiece is an excellent idea! Sounds like a good way for a newbie to perhaps end up with a usable howler without ruining a dozen horns first..


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## prairiewolf

If you just want to try making your own, all you need is a piece of pex 1/2" tubing and something to cut it with. Theres a thread on here somewhere that shows how to. or you can use just about any open reed toneboard to start with


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## Larry

prairiewolf...thanks for the advise on the tubing Ill try it. I have tried delrin rod to make a mouthpiece also before. It works well and is easy to shape.

leadhead..thankyou for the kind compliment.

(PSSSST if you look close you'll see the name Matthew on the dark colored howler. Matthew was just 8 when he shot his first coyote. He did it with a .22 LR at a range of 34 yards with a perfect head shot..those ranch kids learn fast. Later he became a Nebraska 4H .22 rifle champion )


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## prairiewolf

I use to use delrin all the time to make toneboards or wood dowels, but now but most of them from a wholesale company.


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## prairiewolf

Ok, I found the thread on making your own calls

http://www.predatortalk.com/topic/20468-how-to-make-your-own-predator-call/


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## Rick Howard

I use delrin almost exclusively to make my toneboards. Mylar for reeds almost all the time too.

You can buy yeller dog toneboards and reeds, prefab, on allperdatorcalls.com.

the Dan Thompson mouthpiece is a good one. I have several of his Howlers and like them all.

Like Duckmaster said, not all horns are created equal. It takes some time and a lot of cowhorns to get it right. The wall thickness, the length, the taper, the curve, the ratio of length and opening on the end. They all have bearing on how the call will sound. Most of the time you can get a pretty good howler out of a horn though. Some just require more work than others. I have made lots of them. No two are alike for sure. But they all call coyote.

Wish Rich was still around. He would have loads of insight on making horn howlers. I have two of his horns and they are great calls. LOL I bet you will learn to make your own howler easier than finding someone willing to part with their Cronk Howler.


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## pokeyjeeper

rick robbins @ rrcalls.com makes some great howler boards and I think they are 1/2 inch dia.


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## LeadHead

Are they as good as a Dan Thompson, do you think?


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## prairiewolf

I looked on his site and it looks like he uses the yeller dog toneboards for his howlers. But does have a toneboard of his own and it looks like the same as the reese toneboards which are good also.

Most 3/4" with a 5/8" section and wedge type toneboards are all about the same, I dont know who started them but Primos makes one also. You can hold them upside each other and probably couldnt tell whos was who. Like I said before any open reed will make howls, it mainly depends on the reed and the caller himself for what type of sound comes out. Some people will like the larger 3/4" mouthpiece with a 5/8" section and wedge to insert in call, these are the ones that reese, primos and rr have.. While others find it easier with the smaller 1/2" toneboard, not to be confused with a 5/8" that has a 1/2" step down to insert in call. Then there are the 5/8" toneboards mainly made from delrin, like yellerdog or Ricks. So see there are many different sizes and for best results you need to try them for yourself. But just to get started any will work.

also think about cost for first one a Dan Thompson toneboard is $16.99 plus shipping, the reese is about $3 plus shipping. I dont know what a yellerdog or a RR toneboard costs.


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## prairiewolf

If you want a good toneboard and very good instructions on how to make I recommend this one.

http://sdsnake.com/calldesign.htm


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## LeadHead

Interesting link, PW. Considering the fact I don't know the first thing about tuning a reed, however, perhaps it would be worth my time and money to buy the assembly.


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## pokeyjeeper

i like the rr board better it has a smaller air chanele than dans. ricks boards look like yellerdogs but he makes them him self


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## prairiewolf

pokeyjeeper said:


> i like the rr board better it has a smaller air chanele than dans. ricks boards look like yellerdogs but he makes them him self


On his site he states he uses the yellerdog toneboards, which are the 5/8" delrin with rubber wedge to hold reed. From what I can tell Ricks are the 3/4" stepped down to 5/8' with a plastic wedge to hold reed

leadhead, tunning a reed is just cutting it to length untill you get sound and it doesnt shut down. But for first time nothing wrong with ordering a toneboard, but I think Rick

(RedHatCalls) would also sell you a toneboard. I didnt see where RRCalls sold toneboards. I can also give you a place to buy 3 different kinds of toneboards but you must purchase at least $25 worth and the toneboards are around 65 cents, lol


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## prairiewolf

Ok, here is another thought. Do you want a horn howler because you think they sound the best or that they are just cool ?


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## LeadHead

To be perfectly honest, the cool factor is indeed involved. However, my interest was first greatly piqued by getting that horn at the auction with some other items, so I figured the logical thing to do would be to make a howler. In today's technological and made-in-China society, old-style vintage-type equipment appeals to me unless it's simply impractical.


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## youngdon

Rick actually goes to Michigan every year and makes the yeller dog tone boards. Yellerdog( I forget his name) has quit making them.


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## prairiewolf

what does he charge for toneboards Don ? I know Reese charges $3 and are very nice ones.


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## Bigdrowdy1

Rick makes his own version very similar to Yeller Dogs but different. He does not sell his tone boards they are use on his calls only to my understanding. I think yeller dog still makes tone boards but does not deal with the public directly anymore. I could be wrong but I believe that's right.

Rodney


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## Larry

Can someone help me understand something.I hear tone boards used quite a bit. Excuse me being for out of the loop, but does tone board now mean the entire mouthpiece? IE: Reed, Reed Keeper and Tone board?


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## prairiewolf

The toneboard is the actual mouthpiece with the sound channel cut in it. and you are correct than the reed and some sort of keeper.


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## Larry

BTW...not shown I usually put a piece of 1/2 inch tygon tubing over the reed (mouthpiece) for transport and when I throw the howler in a bag. I think Cronk you to use 1/2 inch pvc, but I found the the tygon tubing was a tad better. I like the PVC and it would not clunk against the cow horn if attached with a tether to prevent loss.


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## prairiewolf

Yes Rich made covers with all his main Howlers. Good idea on the tubing. here is a pic of the open reed I use the most, does good howls and distress.

Not fancy at all, the far right has a JC reed in it. Just throw these in a pocket and go.


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## Rick Howard

LeadHead said:


> Are they as good as a Dan Thompson, do you think?


This is a personal preference. I would be inclined to think that the Thompson is not the easiest to learn on.


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## Larry

Rick...I am not sure if any open reed is easy to learn on when it comes to speaking yote, of course that's MHO and some may disagree. As most can make a distress sound, speaking yote is entirely different.

My personal advise to beginners when learning on any howler is learn with a mouthpiece first then add the amplification apparatus. Doing this eliminates back pressure on the reed and doesn't take as much air.

I will also say this. Blowing any animal call is like learning to blow a musical instrument. Some people take to it very easily, while others must be dedicated and practice. Then some may not figure it out at all. Band students don't just pick up a clarinet or saxophone and start a concerto.They must first learn to moderate air just right to cause that reed to vibrate. It doesn't mean you're a failure at all if you can't figure it out, as we all are different and all of us control specific muscles differently. He' ll I can't play a piano.

As for my teaching methods, I tell beginners to start at the tip, add pressure with your teeth and hold a note. Keep doing that over and over until the note causes a ringing in your lips. I say this as a new person wants to blow with a full lung. The tip of the call takes more air and that makes it a perfect place to start. If you start towards the fat end you'll be out of air before a good note is made.

Again bear in mind this a musical instrument. Take it one note at a time and with the last note you learn being the deepest as it takes more air. Eventually you'll be able to slide the reed between your teeth with just the right amount of pressure to do DO-RE-ME then backwards from ME-RE-DO. I can't say enough, practice with purpose. Later you'll learn to wobble the reed to get the yodel.

Before long when the real yote sends a sound back, you'll be able to mimic it. Then as you mature in your calling you'll learn to antagonize it until it has to come in.

I hope this helps?


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## Rick Howard

I agree. Nothing is easy and all require practice and patients. Though some are easier to run than others mostly to do the volume of air needed to be sustained. None are extremely difficult though. Anyone really can learn. Most people do not want to take the time though.

Most common mistake I see is, folks try to exhale too hard into the call. All that is needed is a steady stream of air from your diaphragm. What is required is more like fogging a window with your breath. Another common mistake is to crush the reed with their teeth of lips on the toneboard. Just enough presure to get them to touch is all you need (touching is not a requirement)


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## youngdon

prairiewolf said:


> what does he charge for toneboards Don ? I know Reese charges $3 and are very nice ones.


To my knowledge tho only place to buy them is from allpredatorcalls.


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