# How should I finish my new stock?



## LeadHead (Feb 11, 2012)

So, today I FINALLY bit the bullet and ordered a replacement stock for my Ruger M77 since the original stock was buggered up by the original owner. I've wanted to install a nice laminated thumbhole for a long time, but it seems that nobody offers one for the short action M77 with the tang safety in my price range at the moment. Boyd's has one for the long action, and you can get all sorts of stuff for the Mk II rifles, but options are much more scarce for my model (of course!).

Anyway, the new stock is made from semi-fancy walnut and should be here next week. Seeing that I'm not a battle-hardened gunstock finisher I would like some input from you guys regarding what product would be best to stain and seal it. My preference is a matte or satin finish, and since it's a coyote gun it will be no stranger to snow, though we don't usually coyote hunt in the rain.

Over the years my dad has refinished a lot of gunstocks and he has been a proponent of tung oil. It seems pretty decent, but on one of my guns that he refinished I noticed that at one time the finish got sort of a textured surface on the forearm where my sweaty hand had been handling it. Is this out of the ordinary or is it somewhat "normal" for a tung oil finish?

Any suggestions would be welcome.


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

I'll have to back Dad on the tung oil, He may have gotten it a bit thick in that spot and the oils from your hand(or something that wa on your hand broke it down. One of the keys to tung oil is the rubbing. I've always rubbed long and hard enough to heat the surface(that's what she said), burnishing it to a hard surface. A power tool of some sort with a buffer wheel works wonders and cuts the work load considerably.


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## Rick Howard (Feb 25, 2012)

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6524&site=ROCKLER
I like this tung oil as I can mix it myself.

Tru oil is a good option too. You can buff with 0000 steel wool to take away shine.

Oils take a long time to cure. Take your time and allow at least the listed amount of time for cure.


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## LeadHead (Feb 11, 2012)

What do you guys think of Lin-Speed oil? Is it suitable for what I'm needing? Midway has a 2 oz jar for $9, but not having ever used the stuff before I have no idea how much is required for a stock.


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

You can add lin-seed oil as it helps with penetration. But a good tung oil shouldn't need the help. I use it on our cabin 1 part linseed(boiled) to 5parts oil. again take your time and let it cure before moving on. humidity is going to prolong the dry time substantially.


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

I've used a satin spray epoxy finish made for gun stocks on walnut and it was easy and looks great. I've used exterior grade polyurethane spray (Hellmsman) with excellent results. Once the process is started, you must keep applying finishes within an hour or two (lightly sanding between coats and using a tack rag to clean dust) or you must wait some 3 days, but you can build a finish fast. Once cured, buff with fine steel wool.

Whatever finsih you choose, I wouldn't bother with any stain. Walnut is beautiful with a clear finish and that's why cheap hardwood stocks are stained - to resemble real walnut. Let its natural beauty show.


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## Rick Howard (Feb 25, 2012)

Glen was the hellmans poly or spar?


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

I've seen it called spar/urethane.....I think Minwax puts it out.


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

That's right, YD. Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman *spar* urethane for exceptional protection from sunlight, rain and moisture, and temperature changes. The can comes with an adjustable spray pattern. I apply enough light coats to fill the grain but like I said, you must keep coating it within 1.5 hours or wait 72 hours to coat again. Common instructions with these finishes.


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## sneakygroundbuzzard (Nov 1, 2012)

i vote for tung oil

its all i use to finsh my self bows with(except when i want a primtive finish,then i use bees wax)

like stated when properly applied its a great finish.

when i apply it to a bow it put the bow in a small room with a dehumififier in there,helps to dry it quiker.

sand the wood for well first,i dont recomend burnishing the wood,as it makes it take forever to soak in to the wood.

after each coat is very dry,lightly buff with xxxx steel wool,then wipe down with cheese cloth to remove the residue from the steel wool.

then apply another coat. i always use 12-15 coats of tung oil.it makes it very very durable and gives it a high end furniture finish(learned that from my father inlaw,retired carpenter).

on the last couple of coats i dont use the steel wool,just buff very well with the cheese cloth.

if you dont want a high gloss,use the low gloss tung oil.either way you cant go wrong.

i know it sound like its a lot of work,but the end results are worth it.


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## LeadHead (Feb 11, 2012)

Thanks for the info, guys. While at the local gun shop today to pick up some more powder (yes, they had some!) I went ahead and bought a bottle of Tru-Oil to try it out. It'll be a few days at the very least before I'll get to try it, but we'll see how it goes.


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## sneakygroundbuzzard (Nov 1, 2012)

although true oil makes for a good finish

a word of caution

if you put it on to thick,or to many coats it will crack and flake of over time

i have a self bow(this one not made or finished by me) that has a true oil finish,and it has done just that

i know a gun stock doesnt bend like a bow does

but like i said, if put on to thick or to many coats this will happen

alot of the older gun stocks were finished with true oil,but had a very few coats of it put on at the factories

and that is why they always recomend oiling your stocks once a year on older fire arms

but it does make for a great finish,and will make that walnut just "POP"

but please like glenway said, no stain he walnut itself is a GORGEOUS wood


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## LeadHead (Feb 11, 2012)

I don't want a bunch of coats; rather, my goal is to put on just what is necessary to protect the wood and to give it a nice smooth finish while highlighting the grain. From the little bit of reading that I've done about it, it sounds like 3 or 4 coats is about right for this gun. Sound reasonable?


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

If you're going with the urethanes, you don't need to put on any more than that. Additional coats will fill the grain more.


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## sneakygroundbuzzard (Nov 1, 2012)

yes 3-4 coats of tue oil should be sufficiant

and will definately make the grain pop

but remember to get out all scratches and tool marks first as once you put on the finish they will become much more noticable

and dont forget to show us some pics of that new stock,looking forawrd to seeing it


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## Rick Howard (Feb 25, 2012)

I have used the helmans spar urathane on a few calls. I like that too. Spar, teak and tung oil all have uv inhibitors I believe. I am no sure tru oil does. It does seem to be a fan favorite for finishing gun stocks though.

Most teak and tung oil contain no teak or tung oil. Instead they use a sythedtic solid cut with a drier and mineral spirits. This is why I prefer the rockler pure tung oil as I get to make my own mix. For premix oil I prefer Watco Teak Oil.


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