# Sennecker (Alberta) Killer Snares



## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Has anyone tried these with any luck? Fact is I am getting weak older and thus my my strength just isn't up to par.

This season I found dragging along 10 to 15 killer poles 5-7 miles on foot is almost like lugging around a pack basket full of muskrat traps in the swamp.

I have considered Ram Power springs but there goes the weight thing again not to mention cost.

BTW I am talking land sets.

Larry


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## C2C (Mar 17, 2012)

These are all I use Larry , a long extension with light snare cable , cam lock, kill spring and trigger in all open areas where heavy entanglement is not possible. Snare is 5-6 ft ,extension the same for total length of 10-12 ft. Load your snares and set them like Marty does and they work very well . The long setup gets the catch off the catch site and in many instances the spot can be set again . I caught 4 coyotes in exact same location because it was relatively undisturbed and only needed snare to be replaced . The coyote in this picture is a good example . In heavy cover I will shorten them up , sometimes not even using an extension .






You can see the damage to the cover below the trail where snare was set , but this is after 4 of them .Trail remains in good shape . The set is anchored near the trail and that is only thing I will change for next year . It will anchored about 3 ft farther down the hill and no damage at all will occur near the top


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Thank you so much for the info and great photo. Can you please answer some of these questions also?

1) I calculated my cost at two or three websites including Martys and 100 will cost me around $200.00 or $20.00 each. (To get started) Is that about your cost as I assume you make your own?

2) Is there a specific loop size? IE: I know some guys with conventional snares like set large loops up to 12 inches. Others like tear drops such as what you'd set for cats. My preference is hand size...9-10 inches.

3) Do you use any sort of head popper to get the coyotes head up?

( for the new guys, coyotes on trails normally walk with their heads down ((( UNLESS RESPONDING TO A CALL" ))) Thus you add a twig, stick grass etc. about 8 inches off the ground and about 1 foot on both sides of the snare to get them to "pop" their heads up. This is not required for cats as they hunt with their heads up like most sight hunting animals. If you forget the simple things like "popping their heads" look what happens&#8230;dumb trapper mistake by Old Larry)))









4) Have you had any issues with such thin wire 1/16 inch?

5) Is your extension wire heavier then the snare wire?

6) How often does the snare wire need replaced? After each set? Or is the fight by the yote so minimal you just reset?

Again thank-you

Larry


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## C2C (Mar 17, 2012)

I should have clarified Larry , I don't use Martys snares ,just his system . I buy the Deathblow camlocks and cable from Dakotaline cheaper and better than what Marty has , He has had some issues with lock breakage on his lightning locks . I get the 265# BADs from Marty as well as the kill springs { heavier than Dakotalines } and his triggers as well .I use plastic tubeing supports instead of the coil spring wammys , nicer to attach to the support wire Dont know what the cost is per snare I just pay it .

Answering your other questions ..

1. Exchange is crazy so my cost would be out to lunch compared to yours , buy some from Kris at Dakotaline and the rest from Marty .

2.My loops were about 9" or so and about that same distance up , but I was getting too many refusals at sets so after advise from a friend I went to 11-12 " loop , about a foot off the ground . I like round loops An easy way for me to measure is the top of snare is about even with my knee cap . I hang the snare with Kill spring and lock at about 1 oclock to the support wire so it goes off quick and make sure you load your snares so they will do this . I like to have cable tight on supprt wire so the snare shuts fast and isnt carried down the trail like a lasso til the critter hits the end to take up the slack and close it .Notice the weed tucked into the support to hide the lock and spring. I believe I have less refusals at these heights because the snare is above their line of sight , before when I had it lowered it hit them right across the eyes and I had a few live ones as well , not after moving up .

3. I very rarely use a " chinup " . I have had coyotes drop their head to smell it { must have still had scent from my hands } ,seen it on trail camera ,if I do I dont put it in center of trail but at an angle up from one side and have it about an inch under the wire . Set trigger on shortside of loop on spring not over top .

On hillside trails I have loops still about 11-12 ' but have them lower , maybe 8-9" up . Chin ups work good here .

4. The few issues Ive had are the odd chewout , I use 1/16" , 1x19 cable but it is far outweighed by less refusals and quicker snare sets . Easier to hide, especially in open areas and makes a nicer loop than 5/64 . Having said that , in areas where a coyote make hang back and really chew , like on my hillside sets I use 5/64 all with same setups {springs locks triggers }. In cases like this I find they are looking right up the cable and thats where they start if they havent locked up just right .

5.I use 3/32" extensions , usually 5-6' long , but in brush with lots of entanglement , I will go with a short 2-3 footer or none at all . Open areas get the long one so dog can get a good run and set lock tight which opens the trigger on spring and that finishes him off.

6.Very rare to have a snare that can be reused , most have some sort of kink or blemish that slows their operation for a future set . For the 2.50 -3$ it costs I will replace them for a $150 coyote . Besides on most caught coyote you have to cut the snare to even get it off .

7. Have fun and dont be afraid to ask questions . I learned all I know from other snaremen and am willing to help all I can .

Last but not least I lightly spray paint my snares and extensions to take off the shine . Some tan / gray for earlier and dry conditions and white ones for snow , believe me , the white ones disappear in winter . Got a friend experimenting with some camo ones .. tan or white with a gray dash to break up their outlkine and he says they work great . I'll post a pic of my set up . .


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## C2C (Mar 17, 2012)

Here is my basic setup. An inch or two lower is alright as well . I like this height when I am setting near a bait , in these spots a coyote has head high looking around .






This is a good spot for 5/64 cable .







This is an open country set , very first one I ever made , 2 days later this was my reward .Call it beginners luck ..lol


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## catcapper (Feb 11, 2010)

Good write up C2C.

Quite a few trappers will over look use'in snares cause they really don't understand them or the different methods wire has to offer.

awprint:


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## jimmy shutt (Jun 2, 2013)

good read C2C, that's a lot of information right there......Pa. is restraint only. wasn't going to mess with it all and probably still not next year. I have seen the advantage in certain spots already from my short trapping sessions this year where there are distinct trails in the wide open....perfect spots!


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## hassell (Feb 9, 2010)

Great writeup C2C.


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Thank you so much for all the info. I "think" I am sold only a few catches will seal the deal..hahah

I don't know if you have seen this youtube video or not. But here is Marty making snares like the one in discussion.


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## C2C (Mar 17, 2012)

Thats the man .. He runs the NAFA depot in my part of the country and Ive had some good discussions with him while dropping off fur . Quite a guy , puts up big numbers of coyotes and knows his stuff . If I can help with any more questions feel free to PM me .


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

C2C

Please shake his hand and tell him an old guy from Iowa/Nebraska thanks him for teaching me a new trick.

Also I thank you for teaching me. If I can help you with anything from calling to setting steel let me know.

Best regards,

Larry


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## C2C (Mar 17, 2012)

TheDuckMaster said:


> C2C
> 
> Please shake his hand and tell him an old guy from Iowa/Nebraska thanks him for teaching me a new trick.
> 
> ...


No problem Larry , glad to be of help . I didnt learn all these tricks on my own , a number have come from fellow trappers and Marty himself . I will gladly tell him ..Ive never had much luck with legholds , hence the turn to snares , I'll be picking your brain here about em before next season .Cam .


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

Wish I knew a fraction of what you two know about trapping. I sure like the snare idea, because I really have no desire to fight the frozen ground, digging and boring holes, to set a few traps. Instead of making the snares, is it common just to buy a few ready-made? I don't expect to get into it on a large enough scale to justify the press, etc. When things thaw out around my parts, I'll be setting a few leg-hold traps (thanks to Jonbnks) who sent me some Duke #2s.


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## catcapper (Feb 11, 2010)

Pre-made snares are fairly cheap if your only gonna run a couple dozen or so. Goggle or check out some of the trap'in magazines and you'll find just what your look'in for. Most pre.-made snares can be had for $14-$17.00 per dozen.

awprint:


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## C2C (Mar 17, 2012)

catcapper said:


> Pre-made snares are fairly cheap if your only gonna run a couple dozen or so. Goggle or check out some of the trap'in magazines and you'll find just what your look'in for. Most pre.-made snares can be had for $14-$17.00 per dozen.
> 
> awprint:


This how I started .I bought a certain model that the company offered then after I decded what worked for me I had them custom make them . First ones all had swivels but Ive dropped them now as I dont see a need for the, After a coyote makes his first wrap around some brush the swivel is rendered useless anyway . The cable is avaiable in dipped colors as weel for camo purposes but I prefer to color my own . Gonna have 200 ready to go this year before I begin , my son will be helping me so we are expanding the line


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Glen....Michigan isn't much different soil wise then where I am. The trick to digging in winter soil two fold...

Got some hot sign? Use a trapper's hammer below. I do like fiberglass hammers as I don't wear gloves that much, and the metal will ring allot when you hit hard ground. Hurts a guys hand. However, at -0 better have two or three on hand as those handles will break.

Always wear sunglasses when digging as that frozen soil flies everywhere. I had to leave a set as go back to the truck once I had so many fine chips in my eye.

Next add some salt in the bottom of the bed.......place your trapwith pand cover, bed it, and add more salt after you crunch the frozen dirt in your hand. I prefer my hand instead of sifter as my hands are warm and do just fine to cover the trap. all over the area. Does not hurt to expose dirt 1-2 feet on each side of the bed. What no gloves...what about scent? You know I am like some of the old trappers I guess...human scent doesn't seem to last that long. Especially after a day of making sets, you always seem to get lure, bait and urine on them.

How do I know making a big area with salt works.....I asked a old coyote that once before I dispatched him. he told me " whats the difference between your human made diggings and the one's I visit those damn badgers make? "

I do like Morton's a Kosher salt in the blue box ~ $3.00. The granules are bigger then table salt and thus you need a tad less. But table salt will works just fine you just need more of it because the granules are fine.










2) Have a good trail where you want to put in some flat sets (sent post, gland lure sets etc) salt the area a couple days in advance. Or if its an old consistent set place. Salt it when you first make a set and the ground is frozen. Add enough salt to keep the ice out. It wont freeze all winter...as long as the rains don't dilute the salt concentration.


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