# scope mounting



## pork chop (Jan 7, 2015)

HI Guys,

I just bought a dpms panther arms heavy barrel 223 I put a scope on it can't even get the bore sighter in the scope \, It has a high mount on top of it, it's not down on the rail like any other gun I have

Any ideas on that this ? I have bore sighted many other guns with this it is a bushnell pro model always worked well , any thoughts would be appreciated .

Thanks in advance

Pork Chop.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

Skip the bore sighter. Look down the tube and get the cross hairs close then start at 50 yds with a 2' Sq backer.

Sent from somewhere in the time space continuum


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## pork chop (Jan 7, 2015)

I went and got a laser one to go in the chamber and I run out of room in the scope adjustment to go down that far, any thoughts.


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## will1burr (Dec 12, 2014)

Try uploading a profile pic of the gun and scope.


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## Furtaker (Dec 11, 2010)

I would take it off and start over. I stoped bore sighting my rifle and started shooting butcher paper. If It is with not good in again you need to make sure you have the right mounts. All of my mounts are ultra highs and love that a lot more than a lower mount. What scope rings do you have? Are they for a pictany rail ?


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## Tuffdaddy (Oct 26, 2012)

When I initially sighted my scope on the AR, I started at 25 yards an a biiiiig piece of paper to get a starting point. After the first shot, you can get dialed in pretty fast. Then we moved to 50 yards on a normal target. Then out to 100 yards.

Worked nicely given I couldn't bore sight mine either.


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## pork chop (Jan 7, 2015)

Can someone help me on how to post a pic please?


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## will1burr (Dec 12, 2014)

If you are using a phone click the 3 dots in the upper right corner. Go to reply. Click the paper clip and select the photo you want to upload.


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## JTKillough (May 4, 2010)

fr3db3ar said:


> Skip the bore sighter. Look down the tube and get the cross hairs close then start at 50 yds with a 2' Sq backer.
> 
> Sent from somewhere in the time space continuum


Do what he said here. Make sure the gun is unloaded. Put the gun or upper alone, in a shooting vice or range bags. Again, make sure the gun is unloaded. If the gun is intact, hinge the gun open, pull the carrier group out and look down the bore at a distant target. I use a cheap shooting vice on my kitchen table so that I can hinge the buttstock down, out of the way. Then I use the roof top vent on a house two blocks away as my target. Eyeball down the bore of the rifle and adjust your bags so that the distant target is dead center of the bore. Once you have the target dead center of the bore, gently adjust your crosshair to the target. Be careful not to move the bore or gun. Recheck the sight picture through the bore, then your crosshair, to insure it is on target and you haven't bumper the gun. This will put you very close at 50 yards. Then shoot at paper at 50 yards and adjust until your about an inch high and center. Move the paper to 100 yards, shoot and adjust until you're on target. If you want a 200 yard zero, then go to 200 with paper after the 100.


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

^^^ What he said 110%, especially the unloaded part.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

I have my scopes on my AR'S mounted 2.75" above bore and still don't have a problem with them. Just saying. I'm using Buckmasters.

Sent from somewhere in the time space continuum


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

How high is it ? You have to have the scope up on an AR so you don't have to scrunch your neck to align your eye with the scope. one of mine sits 2 3/4 above the center line of the bore. A picture of your set up may help.

Welcome to the forum pork chop ! And happy belated Birthday !


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## Furtaker (Dec 11, 2010)

Higher the better for me!


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## Jonbnks (Jan 21, 2012)

I have been using a cheap flexible shaft LED light that I picked up from Harbor Freight. I open the bolt and slide this light into the chamber, then turn off all the lights in my basement. I align the crosshairs with the center of the light. It's worked pretty well for me so far.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-flexible-shaft-led-light-95414.html


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

Lots of things could be the cause of this issue.

The scope's reticle should be centered mechanically or optically. Mechanical centering is done by counting the number of turns in each adjustment dial, then setting the dials in the middle of the ranges.

The scope is then mounted with the aiming point of the reticle as close as possible to the center of a collimator's grid. This may require adjusting or shimming the mounts. Another solution - and, a good one - is to use Burris Signature rings, which have polymer inserts of various thickness inside the rings.

Overtightening can also cause problems. Only 20 inch-pounds are required to hold a scope on something as brutal as a .416 Weatherby! Such pressure on your wrench can be applied with your thumb and two fingers.

Some scope-mounting issues are the result of rings that are not lined up. Ring alignment should be checked with some type of alignment bar, but not the type with points on them. Another option is to use a single rod spanning both rings, such as the Scope-Tru - an easy-to-use alignment tool that's 18 inches long.

A misalignment of .02 inch results in a foot of scope adjustment at 100 yards with a ring spacing of 6 inches and two feet with a 3-inch ring spacing.

By mounting a scope correctly, you can be sure problems are caused by a defective scope and not the nut behind the screwdriver.


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## dwtrees (Mar 5, 2012)

glenway said:


> Ring alignment should be checked with some type of alignment bar, but not the type with points on them.


Why not the pointed type?


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## youngdon (Mar 10, 2010)

If you hold your scope to a mirror you'll likely see two sets of reticles. Adjust your knobs till you see only one and you'll be centered. I used my wife's little
Round make up mirror from her purse so I didn't have to remove the scope from the rifle, but I knew the scope was correctly mounted. From my experience doing that I will warn you,
DO NOT get caught doing that with her makeup mirror.


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## glenway (Mar 27, 2011)

That's the optical way to center the reticle, YD, and another good way to check things before starting.

DW: Why not the pointed type? Just because the points are touching, doesn't necessarily mean the bars are aligned. With the points toward each other between the rings, you'd still need a straight edge along the side of the bars to confirm they are aligned. Why bother with this method?

You can still use the pointed bars, however. Just turn them around so the flat ends touch and you'll be able to feel any misalignment with your fingers.


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## fr3db3ar (Aug 6, 2011)

For me, I want my scope pointed downward a bit in the front. I'd like to be maybe 8-10 clicks off of the bottom when zeroed at 100 if I plan on dialing for yardage. Once you're zeroed I can't see you ever having to dial down so that's just wasted elevation. JMO.

Sent from somewhere in the time space continuum


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## Larry (Dec 2, 2010)

Folks, back in my Military Scout days we would just set up at 29 meters and go from there. Now days on new rifles or scopes I break open a large cardboard box, place some scotch blue painters tape in the middle and fire one shot. I would then adjust from there. No need ever for bore sighting or any of that crap. Not to mention if you would bump the scope you step 33 steps and fire. Now your good for 100, 200 and 300 yards.

Those days we were firing 30-06. With the smaller .223 I would drop back to the current 25 meters or 27 steps. Fire a few shots at 200 yards if your on call it good.

Note: these are for hunting puposes where your shooting a 10 inch pie plate. For bench, walk the rifle out and make sure you shoot one or maybe two flyer rounds.

There is never a need a fancy bore scope using this method. Also if for any reason you need shim the scope you,ll know it right away.


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## texaspredatorhunter (Aug 14, 2014)

I know the M16 is 36 yards with 62 grain steel core and you adjust of the front sight post with 200 in the rear and you will be dead on with it every time. With my 22-250, 50 is the same as 200 in reference of crossing the line of sight. If I change weights and velocities it will be off....again!


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